Chewbacka

I used a 600w drill on a 1kW continuous (claimed) cheap inverter. I started the drill bit slowly increasing the speed and it worked fine like this for months, until one day the inverter went bang. I now have a ‘proper’ inverter and it’s reasonably bomb proof. So depends on your inverter.

I trust you don't use any bleach, disinfectant or detergent at home as some of it will get into the environment. More concerning is how long the stuff persists in the environment - All oldies contain a bit of ddt.

if you use a double wall insulated flue it is fairly cool, so I used a gap of about 2 inches between flue and combustible materials, but if using a single wall flue pipe it will be a lot hotter, especially if the stove should 'run away', needing a bigger clearance. What flue are you planning on using? As an aside I only used twin wall where it passes through the roof, the rest of the flue going down to the stove being single wall.

Something to consider. On my boat the filler (and dipstick hole) is on the opposite side to the engine take off point. If the boat lists a bit, then the fuel flows to one side, if it’s the dipstick side it can add an inch to the level and conversely drop the level on the ‘engine’ side. Gives the impression there is a couple of inches more fuel for the engine than there really is.

I would take the hose of the washing machine, check the filter as above then turn on the tap for the washing m/c and see if the water flows freely from the hose - into a bucket. A good flow is 10 litres in a minute or so.

If the tide is going over the Gloucester weir you don’t want to be near Gloucester. Call Gloucester lock and they can tell you if there are problems and when to avoid. If you have a tide times app on your phone you can check tide heights at Sharpness and from memory a high tide at Sharpness needs to be a bit over 8m to overtop the weir, which it does about an hour later. But check this with Gloucester lock in case my memory is off. Even if the river above Gloucester has calmed down but is now draining the excess back to the sea the flow can be significant, and if going up river will seriously slow you down, so high engine revs & plenty of diesel. Better to wait. If you haven’t checked in advance, the lock keepers at Gloucester and Upper lode lock will usually warn you when you arrive if there is a trouble ahead.

It doesn’t work, even controlling the bridge remotely isn’t always a success and the guy has to walk down from junction bridge. The sensors seem to be the problem. I think they have given up trying to make it work, no point throwing good money after bad.

I spend a lot of time on this canal and found the bridge keepers to be helpful and friendly. Simply, if the lights are on you must obey the rules. solid red - wait. Do not cross the ‘stop line’. Though a blast on the horn if waiting more than a few mins is wise as the bridge keepers maybe having a tea, grass cutting or painting. I have never had a complaint for horn blowing. Though I always give then a few mins. Flashing red means the bridge keeper has seen you. Again, do not cross the ‘stop line’. However this does not mean anything will happen immediately, they may be waiting for a boat on the other side to get closer to avoid having the bridge open for too long - the locals complain. Green - go. If the lights are off it means the bridge is unmanned, if low enough to pass under, then proceed with caution. If too high, phone Gloucester lock and ask advice, assuming you are calling during their open hours. To be fair, you won’t hear them unless you go into tick over. Better to be shouted at and for you to apologise than to get a black mark on your record. Try driving through a red traffic light and claiming it was unavoidable due to conditions………

The text states “Vessels towed through Sharpness Docks and along both the Gloucester & Sharpness Canal and River Severn Navigation need to have the tow approved.” The tow needs to start or end at Sharpness docks. If you don’t transit the dock I don’t think it applies.

Sorry brain failure - I am talking about Great Haywood so ignore the original comment

Sorry brain failure - I am talking about Great Haywood so ignore the original comment

That’s what I do, cycle it 10mins on and 10mins off.

Don’t use silicones as they will need very careful removal if you want to remake the bond in future. For long life - say more than 7 years you need a glass primer on the glass, something like betaprime 550 is good (available on eBay & Amazon). This is often used for car windscreen replacement. Without using a primer the bond may fail after a few years. Also don’t push the glass in too hard, you need an adhesive thickness of a few millimetres otherwise the stress from temperature expansion mismatch will cause the joint to fail. I would use alcohol (ipa) to clean the surfaces. A good way to check if your solvent (eg white spirit) is ‘pure’ put a drop on the glass, leave to dry and if it leaves an oily residue don’t use it.

I suspect a high frequency inverters - which don’t have a big heavy output transformer - will really have problems using a diode, even for small loads.

But if that were the case I would have expected a circle effect

No idea but you could get a cheap pay monthly SIM and see if it works.

As the lack of growth is above the anode I wonder if it is working a bit hard and gas bubbles are occasionally rising and preventing the growth

I would not expect a prv rated at 4bar or higher to leak if feed by a (typically) 1 or 2 bar pump, unless you don’t have an expansion vessel, which you should have. The tank is rated at a max pressure of 5bar, so 6 bar prv doesn’t seem wise. https://media1.svb-media.de/media/snr/116091/pdf/manual_multi_2008-07-25.pdf

I did that on my system, but a word of caution, if you have one on those little plastic topped mesh filters on the pump feed then when you close the tank supply valve the small back leak through the pump causes the pressure to rise in the filter casing so it opens up and looses water, so the pump will come on. But the filter leaking when the valve was shut proved it was the pump.

Just because you cc doesn’t mean you ‘live’ on the boat, as you may have a house even if you don’t live in it much. The big assumption here is that the bit of CRT that ‘knows’ you live on a boat talks to the bit of CRT that issues licences. Probably doesn’t happen.

I had a couple of cheap 30v lights and they put a lot of noise onto the supply wiring upsetting the radio at the far end, so increasing distance between light and radio didn’t help.

At 90 degrees a snug rope will get very tight as the water level changes. Angled ropes have more capacity to cope with level changes. Loose ropes at an angle together with spring lines are even better at holding the boat steady and coping with level changes.

If the pump is pumping air then the tank outlet pipe is above the water level in the tank. Possible reasons - 1. Tank nearly empty 2. As it’s a bladder tank it might have twisted so the outlet is too high 3. The tank is below the pump and the pipe between tank and pump has a leak such that the pump is sucking air which is easier than sucking water (which is heavy) out of the tank. without more information we can only guess

Also if buying cheap your copper cables are often multi strand cca where cca is copper clad aluminium. The eBay cables mentioned earlier are cca. Aluminium has reasonably good conductivity, but not as good as copper, so power is lost in the cable, but it is also not as flexible as copper, and tends to break if bent too often. I would never buy cca jump leads.

No Parallel. If a number of panels are in parallel and one goes short it will present as a short for all the panels in parallel with it. Hence if a few panels are in parallel they should have a fuse between each panel and the feed cable to the controller. That way if one panel goes short then when it ‘takes’ all the current from the other panels it’s fuse will blow. The internal conducts within a failed panel can ‘burn out’ like a fuse but I believe there have been instances of internal arcing and serious over heating. So if you have a few big panels in parallel I would fuse the individual panels. Obviously not required on a single string of panels in series.