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There were two topics on this subject, started in 2017 and 2018 respectively. One called "March of the Wide Beams", which @ditchcrawler revived after seven years of disuse and this one, "March of the Widebeams", with no space between Wide and beam, that has been regularly updated down the years. @MrsM reported it, wondering where seven years of posts had apparently gone and it took some head scratching to work it out. The two topics have been merged, so there is now one, all conquering topic about widebeam boats on waterways of questionable suitability.

Life is Better by Water and all that , it’ll be a relaxed and lovely space on board I’m sure, there'll be some bureaucratic hoops to jump through but all simple enough, I wish the OP luck with it. 👍

Can I run my engine with a air lock in the front hose coming out from the thermostat down to the skin tank.Which is cold at the time of running the engine.as I am a little way from the service point. Ather wise I will have to attempt to bleed the system myself.I have been reading up on it.it surjested to loosen the top hose which in turn is where the air lock is.The engine is a Isuzu marine 35.There is a bleed bolt on the skin tank as well.If you could possibly help with some advice please thank you

About the building of canals https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0074n9t

You can't beat a bit of Fred, the young upstart Guy Martin is trying hard but has a long way to go.

Looks like its been taking down, but such is life. I am over four years late to the party!

Yes, a recent rebrand. The same, helpful people on the other end of the phone though.

What's need is stricter enforcement. https://www.facebook.com/reel/3108430299324542

I had to supply a copy of my mooring contract They will also require insurance information, they should have details of the BSS certificate

From a friends experience the C&RT will not accept any evidence provided by the boater but they will carry out their own checks. Initially the continuous cruising fee may have to be paid and the difference in cost refunded when the home mooring is validated. But certainly a long term mooring agreement needs to be in place in order to obtain a home mooring license.

You need to apply for a licence for a boat with a home mooring. C&RT will need to know the mooring owners details so they can confirm that it in fact a bone-fide mooring paying their dues to C&RT. You will need to have a written contract from the mooring provider, which is for more that 6 months duration.

It is your responsibility to contact C&RT and apply for a licence. The previous owner probably only told them that he had sold the boat

I saw the post Saturday evening and thought "I'm sure we went past there earlier on, and it certainly looks like W&B paddle gear". I remembered to grab a picture on the way back down. Interesting that the roof beams seem to have had a fairly serious rework, as well as the more obvious brickwork.

I don't think in this day and age you can assume that women don't have a willy 😲

I wonder how they afforded to buy a generator in the first place and what they will do when the inevitable failure occurs ? Maybe a few of them should club together and buy a proper generator. Fairly large gensets are available for quite modest amounts of money.

The nights are drawing in, the sky is overcast. The solar panels are no longer always able to keep up with demand. As I no longer have a shore connection and have a dislike for portable generators, it is up to the engine to help keep me in electrons till the sun returns. When converting to LiFePO4 during the summer, I installed a 50A Victron Orion XS battery to battery charger, linked to the remaining Pb acid house battery and the Beta 43 house alternator. This has only been used for testing purposes up to now and has normally been disabled by a toggle switch in the Hi to Lo Enable input. The Beta 43 has a whole other alternator available for the engine start battery. An opportunity to add to my collection of blue boxes from those nice people at Victron. I've installed a 30A Orion Tr Batt2Batt charger to make use of it. This is the older model, lower power, physically larger and runs much hotter than the newer Orion XS. It's saving grace is that it is cheaper and I don't want to risk extracting more than 30A continuously from the smaller engine alternator. I've used another toggle switch to enable this one. Combined, they can put up to 80A in to the Li batts, or a kilowatt of power. I can now put a days worth of charge in to the batts in an hour. Boating newbies often think that an hour a day of engine running will keep Lead acid batteries charged. They find out to their cost that it won't. My boat can now actually do this and save the engine wear, diesel and servicing costs and neighbour annoyance associated with hours and hours of engine running.

@rd9002 This is all very likely to be a non issue. Your boat has a 600ah lithium battery bank plus a decent solar array.....for 8 months of the year your solar will provide all you need and more. In the months where it doesn't your deficit could probably be made up with 20-30 minutes of engine running per day. Remember lots of what you might read on battery charging assumes Lead acid batteries...these require very long charge times to prevent long term damage. This doesn't apply to Lithium chemistry. I think you mentioned a Canaline 70 engine which has a 175amp main alternator and while we don't know the precise charging setup, it should be possible to generate 80 amps from that alternator without issues (overheating). That is a big engine so assume it's also a widebeam = lots of solar presumably.

The MOST annoying and concerning thing about an engine running noisily or obtrusively on a neighbouring boat is not knowing when it will stop. Especially if the 8.00pm turning-off time is approaching! If someone on the boat says cheerily "Just running for an hour as my batteries are totally flat, will turn it off soon mate", the irritation reduces substantially. But conversely, the concern and doubt about when and how it will be turned off amplifies if it is apparent there is no-one on the boat.

Thanks Tony and I am happy to report success! It was indeed the clutch springs (I had a feeling it might be). Did as you suggested and compressed the springs using a screw on the clutch lever until I could get enough space for the woodruff key to fit, then added the gear, spacer and the castellated nut on the reduction box end of the shaft and used the impact wrench to draw it all in. Everything lines up perfectly. Happy days.

I'm surprised at that. All the narrow gauge diesel locos I have worked on use whitworth spanners. I have started to make up WW toolkits for each loco. Surely all the British steam locos use WW? Apart from that, there must be heritage value in old spanners being stamped up with a depot name, loco number, or owning company: eg Reddish,Gorton,5596, LNER, GCR,MS&L.? We never throw old spanners away unless they're damaged beyond repair, even then they can sometimes be modified to suit some custom job, for instance, bending a 7/16 to adjust the clutches on a Ruston Bucyrus!

Passed a n(ice boat at Stretton Wharf ready for some alterations

https://collections.canalrivertrust.org.uk/bw192.3.2.2.28.90