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Showing content with the highest reputation on 24/09/21 in all areas

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  3. No, we are discussing an anonymous rumour allegedly from someone in an unspecified marina. I don't believe it for a minute. The Ribble Link is being shut next week, but that happens every October to April.
    3 points
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  5. Heel on the boat will make a difference too. You should always check the oil level whilst on level ground it said in my Austin 7 handbook, so find a bit of level water.......................................................
    3 points
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  8. If they did more of that, I'd consider supporting them. A couple of years ago I was explaining to some good friends why I won't support or join the IWA, and they were horrified about my observations regarding the current organisation. They couldn't counter any of my points though, they had to acknowledge that the Aickman wing have completely taken over from the Rolt wing. As a (relatively) young person with a very deep interest in boats and boating, they insist I'm the sort of person the IWA need for the future. My counterargument is that you'd need to get rid of most of the national and regional committee members before I'd consider joining - I'd rather be playing out on the boat than bashing my head against self important twerps who did good works in the Sixties or Seventies but now just rant about the youth of today. I expect this viewpoint to be controversial on this forum! To add: The friends in question have been very actively involved in the IWA for more than fifty years, which is why they were so horrified. They just hadn't looked at it from an outsider's viewpoint before.
    3 points
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  20. 2 points
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  31. Just because you can add enhanced capabilities to something, doesn’t mean you should, just saying.
    2 points
  32. I just want a toilet smart enough to take itself to the Elsan point
    2 points
  33. There's a balance to be struck though. The electrical experts on this forum advocate charging daily until a tail-current of 1-2% of capacity is reached. The problem with that is that the last few percentage points takes up about half of the overall charging time. So you may be paying £3-4 just to get from a 5% tail current to a 1.5% tail current, every time you do it. If you don't bother doing this last bit (or only do it occassionally), your batteries lose capacity. Somewhere there's a sweet spot in all this but I don't have the patience to do the maths to work out exactly where that sweet spot is. So I go by my own hunch, and this is what I do: 1. Buy 3 x bog-standard 110ah leisure batteries. 2. Trust my solar to pickup most of my needs for about 7 month of the year. Run a genny when my consumption is high or it's very gloomy out. 3. Come early October, start paying more attention to what my batteries are doing. Especially what charge they're at first thing in the morning. Run genny accordingly, when needed for a couple of hours or so. Make sure I charge up everything while the genny is on. 4. Come November-ish, turn the fridge off and switch to outside cool-box. Start running genny more days than not, as needed. Once a week or so, run the genny for 4-5 hours. 5. Expect to replace batteries every 3 years or so. (£250-ish) Note: I work from home and have a laptop and connected monitor running for approx 8 hours a day. When the fridge goes off, that's by far my highest power draw. Now I could fork out a huge sum on fancy deep cycling batteries, but that would only be worthwhile if I was going to charge them properly. That would mean something like 3 times the engine or genny running for half the year, which would also cost me a lot of extra money in fuel, servicing and wear and tear. A very quick sum in my head tells me that it would come to a load more than £250 every three years. I also get the benefit of less annoying engine noise and pollution for me and other boaters nearby. Lithium is a different ball-game, and I may go that way at some point.
    2 points
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  39. Technically correct, but a pure sine inverter replacement would probably be cheaper and more efficient!
    1 point
  40. You don't state whether you are intending to live on it or just enjoy going out on it. I can't comment on the liveaboard aspects but if it is to enjoy, you have a few options. Firstly, if you have transport (and that includes trains) you don't specifically need the boat to be in Sheffield. You could moor it almost anywhere on the system, and can change that mooring periodically if you want to see a different part of the network. 6'10" wide x 57'6" long is a good guideline maximum size. Most of the wide canals can actually take a slightly longer boat on the diagonal in locks, but if you stick within these figures you can go pretty much anywhere. Have you considered hiring a boat for a week? It's a good way to learn how it all works. Everyone starts somewhere and the hire base should give you enough tuition to get going with. If you consider the things you like/don't like about the boat you hire it also gives a good starting point for considering a boat you might buy. Alec
    1 point
  41. I have the same BV1305 engine with 7k+ hours on it. The only problem has been the Lift Pump which I believe is a well known point of failure on this engine. My engine is lower than my fuel tank and will run with the lift pump by-passed but that was with a full tank. Got shot of the Lift Pump and all its problems by fitting a cheap electric fuel pump instead and have never had any issues since.
    1 point
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  45. Harping on about legal niceties instead of trying to find solutions to current problems is usually accompanied by a refusal to face the reality that problems exist or that usage has changed, and that application of bits of a parliamentary law made almost irrelevant by the passage of time is not a practical answer, so other methods have to be used. Some of us prefer to live in the real world rather than Waterworks fantasy one. It's a bit like the Labour party, faced with petrol queues, driver shortages and empty supermarkets deciding the most important thing to discuss is a conference rule change, or the band on the Titanic arguing about which piece to play...
    1 point
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  47. Buy plenty, wrap them in black plastic and keep then in a cool dark place. (The become brittle if 'rolled up' and left in daylight). Belts stored like this can be kept for 6 years. Source : gates hydraulics. And for the full-monty : Below are some belt storage tips to help ensure that your equipment functions as healthily and long as possible: Belts should be stored in a cool and dry environment with no direct sunlight. Storage temperature should be below 85°F/29.5°C with a relative humidity no higher than 70%. Belt performance is reduced by 50% for every 15°F / 9.5°C above 115°F / 46°C. Do not store belts in areas exposed to: Airborne chemicals Heat sources Direct sunlight Airflow from heat sources Transformers, refrigerators, motors or other sources that create ozone It is not recommended to store belts on the floor. If floor storage is required, the belts should be stored in a protective container and never exposed to foot traffic. Never twist, bend or crimp belts during storage and handling. Doing so will damage them. Do not hang belts from pegs as they will distort over time. Do not store belts under any state of tension. V-belts may be stored by hanging on a wall rack only if hung on a saddle with a diameter at least as large as the minimum diameter sheave recommended for the belt cross section. If coiling a V-belt for storage, consult the supplier for limits. It is always best to store belts flat on a shelf. Store belts in the original box. Stacking of belts on top of each other should be limited. Ensure that the belts on the bottom are not damaged by the weight of the belts on top.
    1 point
  48. But where are you rushing to? Is it vital that you cover as many miles and do as many locks in a day as possible? This is a leisurely life style, not a motorway sprint. You are not trading, delivering perishables, or on a deadline.
    1 point
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