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If they did,I reckon I know the two women...🙄

Wincham is straddle crane, very easy and Tom is very obliging. Middlewich dry dock is not available for any use other than the hire fleet owner. I would take the plunge, offer a little less and buy it whilst you can.But then I don't like surveys, there are so many get out clauses that they tend to be almost worthless.

Alan, I agree as the more I read the more I think it’s best I do not take on the task of re wiring the boat.

I'd say that's not a very good idea. Unless the boat has a very thick baseplate then the builder would have the dubious proposition of sitting ballast on top of the sprayfoam. Additionally, any plumbing leaks which are bound to happen over the years and would normally drain to the stern of the cabin where the water can be removed via an inspection hatch, would instead soak into the sprayfoam (which is comprised of both closed and open cells) or get underneath it and there would be no way of getting it out. Just get the ballast laid on old cables or plastic spacers and if you want floor insulation it would need to go under the floorboards.

On this day in 2012. The Leek Branch and Leek Tunnel. Hazlehurst Junction, leaving the Leek Branch. Stockton Brook top lock.

Where did you check the battery voltage ? (at the batteries or at the fridge ?) I bet if you check the voltage going into the fridge you'll find it probably 1v less than at the battery. You obviously have a volt drop problem which is shown by the fact that you are dragging the battery down with the inverter so that by the time the reduced voltage gets to the fridge it is below what the fridge will accept. Start the engine and you'll be getting 14+ volts at the battery, and probably ~13v at the fridge, the fridge will run perfectly with or without the inverter on. The fact you have been living in the marina with the batteries permanently on charge has masked the problem that your fridge is wired in with the wrong cable. I had exactly the same problem - the answer is to re-wire the fridge supply using the correct sized cable - this will dpend on the distance of the fridge from the battery and should be measured taking into account out & return (so twice the distance) Your manual will tell you what size cable to use, mine shows : For example if the fridge is 7mts from the battery the distance out & return is 14mts, 14 metres require cable size A MINIMUM of 10mm2

Just to clarify. The picture is not of one of their narrowboats. All pram hoods automatically self lower when they detect a bridge. 😀

Hi, 12v shoreline and the light was blinking, just one blink (low voltage I think?). Checked the batteries and they were at 12.64 anyone know what an acceptable voltage is at the fridge. The really odd thing is I turned the inverter off (not on shoreline ) and the light stopped and the compressor fired up. This is the first time out of the marina for 12 months and the batteries have been on charge via the inverter. I have not yet separated the batteries to test individually. 12.64 after a 7 hour run and then engine off for 6 hours. Any thoughts/suggestions more than gratefully received. Pete

Have to say I've never understood that either. Is it one of those things thats repeated so often it become fact ? I'm not a good welder but I've welded or attempted to weld various things on boats tractors and cars and never disconnected batteries or alternators and as far as I know its never caused an issue...

This is “house wiring thinking”. In a house, lighting is not usually protected by an RCD and the current is fairly small (6A breaker and thin wiring). In a boat, everything should be protected by an RCD. But does this boat actually have built-in mains lighting? I don’t mean eg table lights plugged into a 13A socket. That is fairly unusual and if it does then the circuit (wiring) should be protected by a breaker of less than the cable rating and that makes it hard to limit the overall current to 16A without having another 16A MCB feeding the rest of them. What is the reason for wanting a separate breaker for the water heater? Again in a house, the incoming current capability is huge, there is a huge master fuse. And typically a ring main or two with 32A breakers and a separate breaker for the immersion heater, shower etc. But in a boat as I said the max current is limited to 16A. If you turn on appliances including the water heater, so as to exceed a total of 16A, you want something on the boat to trip, rather than relying on someone else’s shore bollard breaker, if you don’t want a catastrophe caused by the shore cable melting. The easiest way to achieve all that is to use one 16A breaker (MCB+RCD, or RCBO) to feed everything, unless there is a good reason to do something different.

I think that the batteries are goosed. 12.64v after a 7 hour run suggests not fully charged by a long way or duff batteries. You will always get some volt drop to a fridge, the starting current is quite high and if the battery voltage is not optimal it won't kick in.

My thoughts exactly. Ugly bugger!!

Total brain fade. My apologies.

He can choose when to watch rubbish now.

The problem is that interfaces between different materials (e.g. metals and corrosion) can form diodes -- not very good ones, but still enough to mean the resistance to current flow in the two directions is different, which converts some of the AC current to DC.

Dutton dry dock Runcorn dry dock Hesfords slipway ABC (Anderton) floating dry dock Uplands Marina (Anderton) slipway Wincham Wharf crane and (I think) dry dock Middlewich dry dock (in the lock flight) Kings Lock slipway Orchard Marina dry dock is no more.

More from this day 2010 Jebus

One of the best things I ever did was to throw out my two TVs at home, about three years ago. Certainly never missed one on the boat. They were a pair of massive Sony CRT things attached to digiboxes that would have probably lasted until the heatdeath of the universe. Took up loads of space for a load of rubbish TV and ads. Friends keep offering me their old but perfectly good tellies, and, although appreciative of the gestures, I do have to explain that I don't miss one or want one at all. That doesn't mean I don't watch stuff at home or on the boats. Certainly able to keep up with breaking news and enjoyed Euro 2020 on the laptop through a mobile hotspot. There is a huge amount of interesting stuff on YouTube, which is where I consume most content. There are music concerts from everyone you can imagine, tons of science and history lectures from international authorities, lots of boats and boatbuilding stuff (been watching a guy in Bulgaria building Proas recently), then and now I'll even dip into a few episodes of Poirot, olds news panel quizzes like Mock the week or stand up comedy (copyright, cough!) but also stuff like RHLSTP where Richard Herring has a guest on for a chat of a comedy bent or Lex Fridman's far more serious, science type interviews. I grew up being asked "Why don't you just turn off the TV set and do something more interesting instead?" Took me decades to act but glad I did.

The fridge?

What is on the label on the existing battery?

Surprises me as well, he is quick to criticise my use of a word in another thread but seems to lack a general level of knowledge of many subjects.

OK, I said I wasn't going to do anything more to this thing and excepting repairs, that was it, but I couldn't resist. 😀 The usual failure mode of the Sureflow and Jabsco water pumps commonly fitted is to start leaking from the pump body. When this happens upstream of the pressure sensor it can continue to leak for a long time as you are not clued in by the pump cycling every so often as the water system depressurises. I've ended up having to pump a lot of water out of the cabin bilge as a result in the past. Someone gave me a couple of very simple water sensors, suitable for Arduino and other PLC's. They are interlaced combs of exposed circuit board tracks, across which a voltage is placed. Any water on the circuit board and the resistance across the combs decreases. The more water, the lower the resistance. They are available for a few pounds. Example. Since it was free and there were still a few unused I/O pins on the Arduino that controls my combined solar controller, calorifier temperature gauge and water tank level gauge, I thought, why not! The sensor was mounted on to an old baking tray, which will sit under the pump, with a bit of Kingspan/Celotex type extruded insulation to damp any vibration. There are three pins on the sensor, 5V power, ground and signal. You don't want to power this thing up continuously as this risks electrochemical corrosion of the circuit board tracks, like a boat on a shore line without a galvanic isolator, or similar. To do this, the 5V in line is powered by a digital output pin, that is energised only when taking a measurement. After testing it with a shorter time of one minute between measurements, I've programmed it to energise for 10ms once an hour. Experiments with measuring the sensor pin values while dipping the sensor in an egg cup of water suggested that 200 out of 1023 as a suitable threshold for the analogue read. I'm not going to put the whole sketch here. If anyone wants to see it, PM me. The LED's on the display show cauliflower temperature for 6 seconds and water gauge level for 3 seconds with a half second gap between each every ten seconds. If a leak from the pump is detected, then during the water gauge 3s display, all four level LED's will light up. This will carry on happening for an hour until the next 10ms measurement. If it is still wet, then it will carry on doing this until hopefully someone notices! All the LED's lighting is a warning. There is a similar thing for the cauliflower being over temperature during the 6s part of the display sequence. There is no real need to have made this. I could just as easily look in the water tank cupboard and see if it is wet! Jen The sensor mounted to the baking tray. Ready for the water pump to sit inside. I should probably drill an overflow hole in the tray near the top to prevent the components at the top of the sensor getting wet.

A lip on the inside of the roof edge hand rail to stop me slipping off. Swims that make the boat a pleasure to use. Adequate sound proofing around the power unit - no matter what the energy used.