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If they did,I reckon I know the two women...🙄

Wincham is straddle crane, very easy and Tom is very obliging. Middlewich dry dock is not available for any use other than the hire fleet owner. I would take the plunge, offer a little less and buy it whilst you can.But then I don't like surveys, there are so many get out clauses that they tend to be almost worthless.

Alan, I agree as the more I read the more I think it’s best I do not take on the task of re wiring the boat.

I'd say that's not a very good idea. Unless the boat has a very thick baseplate then the builder would have the dubious proposition of sitting ballast on top of the sprayfoam. Additionally, any plumbing leaks which are bound to happen over the years and would normally drain to the stern of the cabin where the water can be removed via an inspection hatch, would instead soak into the sprayfoam (which is comprised of both closed and open cells) or get underneath it and there would be no way of getting it out. Just get the ballast laid on old cables or plastic spacers and if you want floor insulation it would need to go under the floorboards.

On this day in 2012. The Leek Branch and Leek Tunnel. Hazlehurst Junction, leaving the Leek Branch. Stockton Brook top lock.

Where did you check the battery voltage ? (at the batteries or at the fridge ?) I bet if you check the voltage going into the fridge you'll find it probably 1v less than at the battery. You obviously have a volt drop problem which is shown by the fact that you are dragging the battery down with the inverter so that by the time the reduced voltage gets to the fridge it is below what the fridge will accept. Start the engine and you'll be getting 14+ volts at the battery, and probably ~13v at the fridge, the fridge will run perfectly with or without the inverter on. The fact you have been living in the marina with the batteries permanently on charge has masked the problem that your fridge is wired in with the wrong cable. I had exactly the same problem - the answer is to re-wire the fridge supply using the correct sized cable - this will dpend on the distance of the fridge from the battery and should be measured taking into account out & return (so twice the distance) Your manual will tell you what size cable to use, mine shows : For example if the fridge is 7mts from the battery the distance out & return is 14mts, 14 metres require cable size A MINIMUM of 10mm2

Just to clarify. The picture is not of one of their narrowboats. All pram hoods automatically self lower when they detect a bridge. 😀

At Leeuwarden, Frresland, the town centre flour mill takes another delivery.

The very later Stowe Hills(2003/4 onwards) front ends got worse and worse, I think Reeves was trying to push the boundaries of common sense just to reduce the steel budget. There were a couple of hulls bought in from Mel Davies too, and these are characteristically tasteful and well made, albeit with a very semi circular back end.

Only if they are registered at Tamworth.

This is “house wiring thinking”. In a house, lighting is not usually protected by an RCD and the current is fairly small (6A breaker and thin wiring). In a boat, everything should be protected by an RCD. But does this boat actually have built-in mains lighting? I don’t mean eg table lights plugged into a 13A socket. That is fairly unusual and if it does then the circuit (wiring) should be protected by a breaker of less than the cable rating and that makes it hard to limit the overall current to 16A without having another 16A MCB feeding the rest of them. What is the reason for wanting a separate breaker for the water heater? Again in a house, the incoming current capability is huge, there is a huge master fuse. And typically a ring main or two with 32A breakers and a separate breaker for the immersion heater, shower etc. But in a boat as I said the max current is limited to 16A. If you turn on appliances including the water heater, so as to exceed a total of 16A, you want something on the boat to trip, rather than relying on someone else’s shore bollard breaker, if you don’t want a catastrophe caused by the shore cable melting. The easiest way to achieve all that is to use one 16A breaker (MCB+RCD, or RCBO) to feed everything, unless there is a good reason to do something different.

My thoughts exactly. Ugly bugger!!

My wife gets sparkling wine from our fridge! 😂🤣

Today in 2013 the weir alongside this lock on the r Yonne was being rebuilt. I didn’t fancy the tower Crane swinging over our heads. This lock is one with both sloping sides but luckily we were the only boat in it so could drift.

More from this day 2010 Jebus

There's not much evidence to support that statement though

Air venturi in the burner jet assembly is obstructed, needs cleaning.

The fridge?

assuming there have been no battery changes in this time?

Seven years life from a lead acid battery is pretty good, so replacing like with like would be my approach.

Thank you for all the helpful advice. My stay in Liverpool was excellent. The trip through the docks was spectacular, our mooring couldn't have been better, and Liverpool has a real buzz to it. Just strolling around, people watching and visiting the touristy sites put a permanent smile on my face. I don't think, in the previous posts, anyone mentioned Mathew St. That's a place no one should miss. We were there the weekend of the Euro final so perhaps the city was a bit livelier than normal. Queues waiting to get into bars at 5 o clock was quite common. Yes, Liverpool should be on everyone's "must visit" list. The only downside was the amount of weed we encountered getting there. From bridge 17 southwards the going was heavy and slow. The end result made it bearable however.

As Alan says have a look at second hand boats, looking at your info your in Dorset the nearest canal the K&A, I would say buy a good 52ft narrow, have it in a Marina your happy to drive to that’s not that far you end getting stressed with the distance/journey. Pick a Marina that has good facilities, many these days have a restaurant/pub, coffee shop and various other outlets, so if you just want to chill on the boat and not take it down the canal you can, maybe go for a breakfast and coffee, a pint and something to eat all within distance of the boat and just relax on the water. Find a Marina with various routes when you take the boat out, so you can explore more then one direction and not have to travel hours to get to a good location, as you say it’s mainly for weekends. Buy second hand and see how it goes, do you want the hassle of buying new, your already asking what engine? What’s next? You could tie yourself in knots on here, Just save all the time and stress and buy a nice second hand boat and go and enjoy and relax. Good luck.

A lip on the inside of the roof edge hand rail to stop me slipping off. Swims that make the boat a pleasure to use. Adequate sound proofing around the power unit - no matter what the energy used.

My deck-wash pump is supplied by being connected to a hull fitting and draws water directly from the Canal / River / Sea, It has simple 'click-in' connectors for the piping so I have made a roving hose pipe that can quickly replace the pump water supply and the end of the hose simply put into the relevant bilge area. The water is then directed overboard, It will suck-down to almost 'nothing' as the boat tends to have a bit of a slope one way or the other in each bilge, simply put the hose into the lowest corner and it gets it to almost dry. A wipe around with some 'Plenty' and its done.

I've got an old whale gulper connected to a long cable and a couple of big croc clips that I can connect to the batteries for emergency use in the engine bay or back of the cabin. I have a couple of sections of hose that I can quickly connect to it. I've also got a wet vac that I can run from the generator and I do have a permanently installed bilge pump under the cabin stairs just in case. It's never activated in anger but who knows? If the calorifier in the kitchen nearby sprang a leak while I was away it would help if most of those 60 litres were evacuated immediately before any damage was caused. I've even got a big karcher mains submersible pump that I bought form someone selling it second hand. Never used it but the more kinds of pumps available the better one's chances of dealing with a flood or water ingress.

Making an assumption that your calorifier is copper, there is advice about drinking water that has come from a 'hot copper source' Government advice : Avoid cooking with or drinking water from hot water taps, because hot water dissolves copper more readily than cold water does. Cold water is not affected in the same way. I was always taught not to drink any water that has come via a 'hot tap' and the first 'bit' that is cold should either be left to run down the drain or used to water plants, etc etc but NEVER drunk. Filtering does not remove the copper out of the water.

You are only borrowing it as most if not all ends up back in the canal.

Not if they don't catch you.....