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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/04/21 in all areas

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  2. I spoke to Craig Allen today he agreed to to do the survey.
    4 points
  3. You really do talk complete rubbish.
    3 points
  4. Have you been sharing the LadyG gin?
    3 points
  5. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  7. I think that Alan was not referring to the OP (Tanmim) but another lady - for clarity so the OP does not feel she's being got at.
    3 points
  8. A word of advice. If you find a boat you even remotely like and want to buy then its too late the next day. Boats that are any good and not a rip off price are selling immediately at present. I didnt even advertise my boat as for sale and a savvy new forum member who was studying this forum sent me a pm and drove near on 3 hours for a look and bought it, no messing for him or for me. He had been looking for nearly a year. He got a very good deal as did I as no tyre kickers or brokering fees so both onto a winner. So keep your eye out on forums and such places and you may buy/sell without hassle in the present climate.
    3 points
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  11. Back to the original question. That rust around the chimney collar is horrible. Thing is that it is not too difficult to fix. Last year I removed the stove, chimney, and collar from Bee, I put in a sort of Taylors paraffin stove with a 30mm stove pipe. That left a great big hole in the roof. Got a 12" square steel plate, drilled and tapped it to the roof, fixed it with countersunk stainless machine screws, tidied it up with a bit of filler and a bit of thin rubber gasket, bunged some paint on it, looks absolutely fine. I'm not saying Tanmin needs to start buying a shed full of tools, I'd do the job for her if I lived anywhere near but on here we do seem to see the worst case scenario in everything. If owning a boat was as desperate as it sounds nobody would ever bother.
    3 points
  12. you should never walk rhythmically as it attracts the big sandworms
    3 points
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  17. Her Ladyship the Mistress of contradictory confusion. .............................. really helpful for a newbie.
    2 points
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  19. Just an update. The fuel boat refuelled me in my absence. I am told by a nearby moorer that after a couple of days the central heating started working again on its own. So all good now.
    2 points
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  22. I bought a boat from Whilton's sister marina in the last few months (owned by them, so all the work was done at their cost). Different people, but same rules and budget. I got a new drive plate and a newly refurbished gearbox (completely different unit), neither of which are anything to do with BSS, The prepuchase contract (assuming identical to mine) says deposit is fully refundable if vendor won't remedy or reduce price to account for BSS or "insurable defects". "Insurable defects" isn't defined, but if it's roof needs replating to protect its structural integrity I think they'd expect to do the work. Same as they certainly won't if its just roof needs a paint. I'd assume any surveyor who works in Northamptonshire has worked for Whilton customers before and know how to word a survey to get their attention if the problem is actually a significant one anyway. And a surveyor ought to be willing to have a chat about that beforehand
    2 points
  23. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  24. Yup. Ask whether Whilton or anyone associated/working with them own the boat or whether they are acting as a broker only. Also to confirm that the boat will be sold free of debt or outstanding finance. Other more experienced heads will add more questions. Worth putting your questions in writing so you have a trail (rather than just word of mouth). I'm sure most brokers have their own Bill of Sale templates they use. My boat was bought privately so we used the previous broker's paperwork to generate our own (ABNB). Before you commit to the survey please check the Ts &Cs of the contract you signed with Whilton in terms of your rights to reject the boat should the survey throw up significant issues. If in doubt share here so the wise sages can give them the once over. But absolutely do not consider not having a full survey with your choice of surveyor.
    2 points
  25. They do say copper wire was invented by a Scotsman and a Yorkshireman fighting over a penny ...
    2 points
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  30. I found this very helpful document on the Eberspacher site: https://www.eberspacher.com/fileadmin/data/countrysites/EB_UK/pdf_files/info_pdf_ebuk/narrowboat_pdf_ebuk/waterways_findings_281_jn348.pdf. It details what can cause problems and how to guard against short cycling etc. Hope it is of some help.
    2 points
  31. Today 2005. We were having the new engine fitted by a company on the Albert Canal in Antwerp. Just upstream there is a bend in the canal which was no problem for the smaller barges but when these very long ones appeared they had problems with it despite their very powerful bow thrusters. There was a proposal to alter the line of the canal which would have meant the end of our engine firm but I’m not sure wether anything came of it
    2 points
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  37. 1 point
  38. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  39. One option that may be both suitable and very affordable is a mooring run by a boat club, they are mostly very cheap compared to other options and secure. Another bonus would be the many enthusiasts who can generally offer good advice and help. They won't tolerate anyone living aboard beyond normal recreational use however. Getting back to the original question on the corrosion, that is not something you would expect to see on a craft offered at that price. My advice would be to talk to a couple of reputable surveyors about the situation, including the fact that you have placed a deposit and the broker concerned and take their advice on how to proceed.
    1 point
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  43. Thanks everyone for your advice. I think this is one to miss for me.
    1 point
  44. I'm sure your son will love it - what amazing adventures you will have together! Although more pricey than cc'ing I think the peace of mind and knowing that your boat will be safe when you are at home that a marina mooring will give you will be well worth it.
    1 point
  45. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  46. I used to helm sea going stuff and as soon as I grabbed the tiller or wheel I always needed to go to the heads. Never feels quite right on a canal boat though, like wearing a captains hat on the Grand Union.
    1 point
  47. https://www.studer-innotec.com/en/products/compact-series/
    1 point
  48. Well finally got my Li installed. Well not totally finished, but getting there. need some tywraps to tidy things up a bit. There’s the Tyco bistable relay on the positive output, the new BMV712 shunt top right which is located above (and thus close to) the Mastershunt. I got 12 links with the 12 cells, so a few are made by me with the same 3 layers of 0.5mm copper strip. At least I had matching yellow heatshrink! Yes the topography of the 4th bank of cells is sub-optimal, but I was constrained by the battery box size. In the middle is the inline fuse that feeds leisure battery power/voltage sensing to my alternator controller. And the small green circuit board contains 4 SMD 5A fuses, these are the wires that go to the BMS and also which carry the power to operate the Tyco. Ive put the Combi into “forced float” which means it is always in float mode, but can still supply its rated current and I can vary the voltage. No temperature compensation wanted so, since there is no Li mode on that Combi, i just removed the battery temperature sensor. The temperature sensor you can see is for the Mastershunt. On the wall I now have the alternator controller, the Masterview, and the BMS - currently without a lid (need to cut the lid up for the connectors and to mount the display). Yes I know the display is sideways, that’s because the oled is plugged directly into the board. Eventually it will be mounted on the lid with flying leads. And all the Canbus (CAT5) cables are far too long, I need to cut them down and put on stubby connectors.
    1 point
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