Leaderboard

Looking at your picture it looks to me that the stop valve is a washered one and fitted the wrong way round. If this is so the washer jumper would be pulled down on to the seat when the pump is operating. Because the tank has not much head to keep the washer off of the seat as it would in a normal domestic instalation where you have plenty of pressure. As the tank level goes down the static head gets less and the tap jumper would get pulled down harder onto the seat stopping the tank emptying any further. Check that the arrow on the valve is pointing away from the tank. If you have a gate valve then ignor all this. In any case I would change the valve for a ball (full flow) one and mount it directly on the tank where it should have been in the first place.

You may have a point - do it next time. On the other hand, if you haven't already been guaranteed a second life, you may just have to fit all you can into this one...

NickNorman says it right. As these batteries are an unknown quantity a hydrometer is the quickest and easiest way to assess them. Get one, tell us the results and we might suggest what to do next. You probably wont get back to the full 1.277 but an equalisation might well get 1.26 or so which might be adequate for you needs. Trojans are good batteries so its worth spending a bit of time sorting them out. Hydrometers are fiddle messy things but are a very useful to have. ................Dave

The thing about older boaters that have been doing it for years is that they and their boat are pretty much "sorted". If you are a crumbly like me but lacking much experience then the learning curve is steep particularly if it includes an unknown boat. Getting the boat and yourself as "sorted" as the old hands just adds to the time, trouble, worry and expense. The OP is in his early 70's and fit so he says. When I was in my early 70's I too was pretty fit but now in my very late 70's I know those few years have taken their toll on my strength and endurance. Believe me I know 'cos I've been helping out a newby and everything takes twice as long as it once did. In the end it is a matter of can the OP's finances stand the hit if it all goes pear shaped?

That's not my experience. I run two Sterling (30 amp & 40 amp) pro-digital chargers combined from my generator and I see a 70amp charge when they first get going on my battery monitor. I don't think the voltages have to be exactly the same do they as long as the higher voltage is correct for the stage of charging? Once the combined charge gradually drops down below 40 amps I switch the the smaller output charger off and carry on charging. I was told by Sterling that combining two chargers to in effect create a bigger charger and reduce the charge time when running from the generator was fine. When I'm on shore power I just use the 30 amp charger.

I think you are right, I may have worded it badley

Yes, but when I replaced mine doing it as per the photo blocked the nipple. I think the casting did not have a large enough hole to allow grease into the groove with the shaft at angle.

Before doing that tie a rope on the rudder incase you lift it out of the cup while trying to pull the bearing up so that if it does come out of the cup you dont lose it 99% of the time they are like that, it looks neater.

But as the shaft probably sits at an angle the grease groove in the new bearing may not line up with the nipple if refitted a sit is now. Turn the base through 90 degrees so the nipple points to the side.

The widespread existence of regional weights and measures before imperial standards were prescribed by law (I believe the Weights and Measures Act 1878, effective 1st Jan 1879) is indicated in a late Victorian arithmetic book I used to have. Its preface noted that it was a new edition that omitted the exercises in conversion between the local pounds, pints etc. that had previously been present. Until the present Imperial Gallon was made the legal standard in 1824, the Wine Gallon of 231 cubic inches (as still used in the USA) was the UK legal standard. Set into the wall behind the fountains at Trafalgar Square is a brass plaque with a standard Imperial yard and its subdivisions. The lengthy article "Weights and Measures" in the 1911 edition of the Encyclopaeidia Britannica says this about local usage: " Customary Weights and Measures - In some districts of the United Kingdom, as well as in provincial districts of other countries old local and customary denominations of weights and measures are still to be found in use, although their use may have been prohibited by law. So powerful is custom with the people. [Report of the Select Committee 1892 and other later sources] " It does not provide any examples of the old UK local units, but does mention that, in 1900, it had been necessary to make a regulation prohibiting the continued presence in school books of the old local customary units.

The gap between the bearing and shaft looks like replacement could be a better bet. They arent expensive.....this is an example ... http://www.wychbearings.co.uk/ucf208-24_housed_bearing_ldk.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwyJn5BRDrARIsADZ9ykFEEkJP921PNscLhk4aWXv6giC6c6EvxuEUotMLpDuZFYFt18ueeRsaAlG0EALw_wcB and the above post tells you how it should be done. You need to measure the rudder shaft diameter to make sure you get the right one

It had to happen eventually.

While you are at it, change that tap for a full flow lever ball valve. Much more reliable and a lot quicker to shut off in a hurry.

That was the beauty of youth the time when you could try things out and have room to fail, as long as no one was hurt you ended up a bit wiser and just got up again and tried something else.

But but but... That would mean preventive maintenance. By CRT.

I'd expect that all new would be much faster than trying to patch tired wet wood.

We had a mechanic who we called Jake the Fake, he rebuilt a Caterpillar generator engine,unfortunately the box he was standing on to reach contained the rockers, the bastard wouldn't start.

You should know by now nothing gets fixed until it's completely broken. Half the locks on the T&M doubles are out of action and a fair few of the others have bust paddles. What with a landslip on the Shroppie, any hire boat trying to do the 4 counties in a week is stuffed! How long has that first paddle been bust? Must be a year by now.

You didn’t take him seriously did you? The guy says he’s lived on the canals the last 4 year in a small Dawncraft, after 4 years he’s progressed to a 30ft Narrowboat(rather old and in need, looking at his Avatar) does not fill me with confidence that it’s going to be any good or he’s to be taken seriously. We’ll wait and see, or maybe just keep waiting.

Oooh I don't know, was down the Nile the other day, got chafed by a crocodile, t-boned by a hire dhow and rammed a block of pyramid stone that was on the bank.

Yes it's fitted into the bow but if you use the term "integrated" you'll just confuse everyone because they might think you have an integral tank.

I'm too old, I'm too fat, I'm too unfit but I took my roof back to metal using a scrabbler about 3 - 4 weeks ago when it was v v hot. Was I knackered? Don't know I was too knackered to know

I didn't start boating years ago to have to cruise to appointments or deadlines and I refuse to do it now. Its supposed to be a placid pleasure occupation, not an organised mad dash.

It's the having to book that I object to. That's the Harecastle (was turn up and go), the Anderton lift (was free if you turned up), now the BW. Be every manned lock soon - one holdup on the way to make you late and you're stuffed. You'll be spending half the day on the net panicking about getting confirmation of the booking and the rest of the trip stressed that you won't make it in time. And that's assuming their computers work and won't try and charge you anyway so you spend the next week sorting that out. But luckily we all know that they never go wrong.

But April and May had less than half the average rainfall.

That's now 3 problems the OP has posted with a brand new boat. The toilet (which turned into a water pump and PRV issue), the water/oil in engine bilge and now the stern gland. Why on earth doesnt the OP ring up Colecraft and get them to sort it? It is a brand new boat (upwards of £100,000!). We have just bought one from Aqualine and I expect them to sort problems especially a drip every 10 secs from a stern gland that looks like it has no packing. If the OP tries to do any changes by himself ...ie new water pump because of a toilet issue, or changing the packing on a stern gland, then he could risk loosing the warranty on those bits. Colecraft are one of the best builders and will certainly sort out your teething issues. Get Colecraft to come out and sort out the stern gland. Rain into the engine bilge might be worth mentioning to them if a few of the drains have been blocked during manufacture....some boat builders have been known to accidentally fill drain holes with filler and paint during the build process!

I wanted to rename ours Triggers Broom as it's been fully oveplated, new engine and gearbox, water pump, batteries. We're putting in a new galley including cooker. But she who must be obeyed wants to stick with Dream Wanderer!