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Looking at your picture it looks to me that the stop valve is a washered one and fitted the wrong way round. If this is so the washer jumper would be pulled down on to the seat when the pump is operating. Because the tank has not much head to keep the washer off of the seat as it would in a normal domestic instalation where you have plenty of pressure. As the tank level goes down the static head gets less and the tap jumper would get pulled down harder onto the seat stopping the tank emptying any further. Check that the arrow on the valve is pointing away from the tank. If you have a gate valve then ignor all this. In any case I would change the valve for a ball (full flow) one and mount it directly on the tank where it should have been in the first place.

You may have a point - do it next time. On the other hand, if you haven't already been guaranteed a second life, you may just have to fit all you can into this one...

NickNorman says it right. As these batteries are an unknown quantity a hydrometer is the quickest and easiest way to assess them. Get one, tell us the results and we might suggest what to do next. You probably wont get back to the full 1.277 but an equalisation might well get 1.26 or so which might be adequate for you needs. Trojans are good batteries so its worth spending a bit of time sorting them out. Hydrometers are fiddle messy things but are a very useful to have. ................Dave

I think you are right, I may have worded it badley

Yes, but when I replaced mine doing it as per the photo blocked the nipple. I think the casting did not have a large enough hole to allow grease into the groove with the shaft at angle.

But as the shaft probably sits at an angle the grease groove in the new bearing may not line up with the nipple if refitted a sit is now. Turn the base through 90 degrees so the nipple points to the side.

Blown cill in 5 days....so they can do it when the hire boats are involved.....

Lock 11 isn't it?

While you are at it, change that tap for a full flow lever ball valve. Much more reliable and a lot quicker to shut off in a hurry.

True, but readers also shoudn't get too carried away over the quiet pump thing, eh? Frequently, the first you know of a fresh water problem is hearing the pump kick in when it shouldn't.

But but but... That would mean preventive maintenance. By CRT.

I'd expect that all new would be much faster than trying to patch tired wet wood.

We had a mechanic who we called Jake the Fake, he rebuilt a Caterpillar generator engine,unfortunately the box he was standing on to reach contained the rockers, the bastard wouldn't start.

Just do it,and if challenged,plead ignorance. If just transiting,don't stop. From Castlefield to Preston Brook it's 20 miles lock free.

Ask at Uxbridge Boat Centre, they must know someone

You didn’t take him seriously did you? The guy says he’s lived on the canals the last 4 year in a small Dawncraft, after 4 years he’s progressed to a 30ft Narrowboat(rather old and in need, looking at his Avatar) does not fill me with confidence that it’s going to be any good or he’s to be taken seriously. We’ll wait and see, or maybe just keep waiting.

Not sure, and I cannot find my copy of the BS to look. Imperial sizes are mainly used by ancient machinery and American manufacturers. Some belt lengths are quoted in either 8ths or quarter inches so a 50 inch A section belt could be labelled A50, A200 or A400. If the belt is a bit over 4ft around, or nearly 2ft long when held in a tight loop I would expect it is 50 in pitch length. If your belt tension is adjusted in the normal way by moving one pulley, or an idler wheel you can usually get away with either the next standard size up, or the next down. Sometimes you can go either way. N

No, I believe that somebody has already invented that word...

And then there are the less considerate ones ...

You may find they're ok. Our shared boat has four Trojan-a-like batteries which are 10 years old. They were chronically undercharged for a lot of that time. Since fitting solar and keeping them topped up they seem to have recovered to an extent, usual daytime charge voltage about 28.6 v and they stay over 25.4 v overnight running the fridge, inverter and odds and ends. I regularly put in a L or more, of water (well, a couple of times a year).

Long shot, there is a vent on the tank to let air in as it empties?

I'm too old, I'm too fat, I'm too unfit but I took my roof back to metal using a scrabbler about 3 - 4 weeks ago when it was v v hot. Was I knackered? Don't know I was too knackered to know

We had a cracker of a storm last night followed by an amazing sunset.

Turned our first numpty away here yesterday. Asked him to text his name to our data base for track and trace which is what EVERY other of the thousands of visitors have done since its incepetion. No chance comes the reply I am not taking part in any track and trace system. Bye bye we says poiltely you aint getting served here. Off he trotts in his sign written van with telefone number on the side what a peelock.

That's now 3 problems the OP has posted with a brand new boat. The toilet (which turned into a water pump and PRV issue), the water/oil in engine bilge and now the stern gland. Why on earth doesnt the OP ring up Colecraft and get them to sort it? It is a brand new boat (upwards of £100,000!). We have just bought one from Aqualine and I expect them to sort problems especially a drip every 10 secs from a stern gland that looks like it has no packing. If the OP tries to do any changes by himself ...ie new water pump because of a toilet issue, or changing the packing on a stern gland, then he could risk loosing the warranty on those bits. Colecraft are one of the best builders and will certainly sort out your teething issues. Get Colecraft to come out and sort out the stern gland. Rain into the engine bilge might be worth mentioning to them if a few of the drains have been blocked during manufacture....some boat builders have been known to accidentally fill drain holes with filler and paint during the build process!