Yes, for the first time, unlike my 2014, 2015, 2016, 2017 and 2018 Pub Cruises, I've not gone beyond the boundaries of God's Own Country this year This wasn't my intention - back in April it was going to be the Fens (again) or the BCN. But just beyond Huddersfield I was stopped in my tracks by a fallen tree and a double hernia and I thought my boating was over for several months. Two Huddersfield boaters, Terry (Mad Harold of these forums) and David got me back to Sowerby Bridge, and I must thank them again for that, while feeling a bit of a fraud, as by late May I was given the all-clear for hard work and heavy locks, and set off again with a change of plan.
This turned out to be a blessing in disguise for a pub cruise - Yorshire is now the Beer Centre of the UK, with 238 breweries, more per head of population than anywhere else. And lots and lots of great pubs. And some not so great.
Once again I must warn pub diners that my scoring DOES NOT INCLUDE FOOD. I eat out very, very rarely when boating, and not at all this year. My needs are simple - a good pint or two of cask beer, and a packet of plain crisps, and my price criterion consists of these items together. It varied this year from £2.60 (just an ordinary village pub) to £5.75 (!!!) - a real city centre rip-off.
To remind of my scoring system:
There are 20 points: 10 for beer and 10 for everything else. Up to 5 for beer choice to include one non-national brand or unusual beer type (certain mediocre 'cooking beers' such as Doom Bar, Abbot and Bombardier are not counted!), and 0 to 5 for quality: 0 and 1 would be sent back - (didn't happen this year) - 2 means wouldn't have another - 3 is acceptable - 4 very good - up to 5 absolutely superb. To make it clear, I'm talking about real ales (cask beers) here. I'm a beer fanatic.
So a score is in three parts: Beer choice+beer quality+everything else. e.g 1+5+7=13 has the same total score as 4+2+7=13, but the first pub has 1 superb beer, but the second 4 rubbish ones. So you can tell quite a bit from the scores as opposed to the comments, some of which may seem a bit downbeat, but often explain why the score isn't higher.
Everything else includes service, staff, clientele, general atmosphere, situation, decor, interesting pictures, special features (eg library!), quirkiness, cleanliness, price, and the presence of live or other music, juke box or fruit machine (all minus) and whether there is a place for drinkers as opposed to diners. And beermats.
You may already know some of these pubs, but remember my conclusions are just a snapshot, as I visited most only once. Some are canalside, but others involved a trek - I'm prepared to put in a bit of effort for a good pint. Occasionally I took buses where evening services were available. The CAMRA website https://whatpub.com/ was very useful for finding good pubs I wouldn't otherwise have known about (you don't have to be a member to use it). I also consulted the 2019 Good Beer Guide, but the pubs in it were sometimes a disappointment. GBG in my comments means the pub is in the latest (2020) edition.
Where I visited a pub on previous years Pub Cruises , I've added my comments from them for comparison. Part 1 (two parts this year) contains more of these, but I did make an effort to find new pubs on familiar waterways, sometimes neglecting old favourites which I've commented on in previous years. This didn't always have good results - I felt occasionallyt I was drinking there so you wouldn't have to! Part 2 was new territory for Cygnet, although I'd been up to York and Ripon before.
So here we go.
Rochdale Canal
MOORINGS, Sowerby Bridge (Jan 23) 3+3+7=13 Not my sort of place, but a warm refuge on a freezing night. Comfortable and well lit. The nearest to my mooring.
HOLLINS MILL (formerly The Works), Sowerby Bridge (Feb 18) 5+4+7=16 Only the name has changed - still barn-like, echoing and dim, but discovered a secret room with books and a sofa and escaped the music.
(2018 - 5+4+6=15 Different name, but still a large, dim echoing barn)
HOGSHEAD, Sowerby Bridge (several visits) 5+4+7=16 Still large and dim, but one or two corners with table lamps to read by. And no music! GBG
(2016 - 5+4+5=14 Large, dim & noisy)
BLIND PIG, Sowerby Bridge (Oct 14) 3+3+5=11 Seriously weird and slightly nightmarish, full of deranged looking people behaving oddly in a rather tatty garish nightclub atmosphere with art and millinery for sale around the walls. Only went in to thank Julie the landlady for rescuing my lost dog, but now discover it's in the GBG! Some sort of joke?
COMMERCIAL, Sowerby Bridge (Nov 13) 3+3+6=12 An average Wetherspoons (I'm not a 'Spoons snob - they vary.) Understaffed and full of kids early evening, but comfortable with good light and no annoying music.
LORD NELSON, Luddenden (Oct 10) 3+4+8=15 Well-refurbished and welcoming village pub with collection of books on Nelson and maritime matters.
DUSTY MILLER, Mytholmroyd (Mar 28) 4+3+6=13. A rather bare, trendy open plan makeover of a listed building. Comfortable but not homely.
BLUE PIG (Midgeholm WMC), Hebden Bridge (Mar 29) 4+5+8=17 Hebden's best-kept secret, hidden in the woods to the north. A club, but welcoming. Absolutely no pretentions.
DRINK? Hebden Bridge (Mar 30) 2+5+7=14 The only place I could find a seat on a Saturday night. Less spartan upstairs than formerly. Rather pretentious (staff and some clientele). Local 'artisan' brews. Closes early.
(2016 - 2+4+6=12 The 'other' micropub (other than Calan's). Rather stark. Limited opening hours.)
ALBERT, Hebden Bridge (Mar 31) 5+3+4=12 Old-fahioned town pub - no local beers, unsmiling service, stale smell, horrible music. Invaded by kids. Rather expensive. Got out and went to:
NIGHTJAR, Hebden Bridge (Mar 31) 2+4+4=10 Amateurish micropub with limited uncomfortable seating, trendy dim lighting, and NO CRISPS.
VOCATION & CO, Hebden Bridge (Oct 11) 4+5+5=14 Really a restaurant with beer, not a proper pub. No crisps, just expensive bar snacks. But all their own very good beers.
RAILWAY, Hebden Bridge (Oct 11) 4+3+8=15 Very friendly basic boozer, but driven out by VERY LOUD jukebox.
Calder & Hebble Navigation and Huddersfield
SHEPHERD'S REST, Sowerby Bridge (several visits) 5+4+7=16 Not quite so good as it was - beer not quite superb, stove not lit, light not so good. No longer in the GBG after many years.
(2015 - 5+4+8=17 Surprisingly cosmopolitan decor. GBG)
(2016 - 5+5+8=18 Now my pub of choice, with the sad demise of the Puzzle Hall* GBG)
(2017 - 5+5+5=18 My 'home' pub. Great beer and good welcome.
(2018 - 5+5+5=18 No-nonsense Ossett Brewery pub doing what they do best. GBG)
* The long-awaited re-opening of the Puzzle Hall is imminent - watch this space.
CROSS KEYS, Siddal (Nov 12) 5+4+8=17 Pleasant locals's pub with small stone-flagged bar and 3 other larger rooms. Welcomed by barman, customers and 2 very friendly dogs. GBG
VICTORIAN CRAFT BEER CAFE, Halifax (Oct 13) 5+4+6=15 Busy ex-Italian restaurant behind the theatre, run by the former landlord of the Puzzle Hall. Over-loud live and recorded music and too dark to read, so provided my own light. GBG
COLLIER'S ARMS, Elland (Sept 21) 1+4+9=14 Sam Smith's, so one cheap acceptable beer in a lovely little pub with no music, telly, jukebox or fruit machine. Also 'Mobile, Tablet & Laptop Free Zone'. Just the buzz of quiet, contented conversation. Bliss. Cash only, too.
MILLER'S BAR (formerly Black Swan), Brighouse (April 24) 5+4+6=15 Trendy makeover with uncomfortable furniture, staffed rather slickly by hipsters.
MARKET TAVERN, Brighouse (Apr 25, May 30) 5+5+8=18 No music, no telly, no fruit machine, just a simple micropub with a great atmosphere, friendly knowledgable service and superb local beers. Closed Mon & Tues. GBG
(2018 - Brilliant addition to Brighouse's pubs. The best micropub I've been in. GBG)
THE CORNER, Huddersfield (Apr 26) 5+4+5=14 Upstairs bar tucked away in a corner(!). Rather stark. Casual amateurish service. Mostly local beers, GBG
RAT & RATCHET, Huddersfield (Apr 27) 5+5+7=17 Old-fashioned pleasantly shabby main road pub outlet for the Rat Brewery. Several little rooms Retreated from Saturday live music. GBG
KING'S HEAD, Huddersfield (Apr 28) 5+5+6=16 Apparently award-winning conversion finished at last. Large, cheerless and echoing, like drinking in an empty church. GBG
(2015 - 5+5+8=18 Large echoing half-finished barn. GBG) Looks like I was more tolerant 4 years ago!
GROVE, Huddersfield (Apr 29) 5+5+8=18 Eclectic interior with weird 'art' collection. Astonishing 19 cask beers and own lined glasses for a full pint. No music! GBG
HEAD OF STEAM, Huddersfield (Apr 30) 5+4+5=14 The other station pub - really 4 pubs (cask, craft, 2 dining) Appallingly intrusive music. Comfortable, but little atmosphere and rather expensive.
VULCAN, Huddersfield (May 7) 5+4+6=15 Basic local pub with sports theme, tellys, jukebox, etc. Beware Fridays (karaoke), Saturdays (disco) and Sundays (band). GBG
(2015 - 5+4+5=14 Good cheap beer spoiled by awful music. GBG)
SPORTSMAN, Huddersfield (May 8 ) 5+5+8=18 Friendly staff and snug back room with good light. Very busy at weekends and unexpected live music at any time. GBG
(2016 - 5+5+8=18 Weirdly assorted clientele. Can be very busy. GBG)
WHITE CROSS, Bradley (Sept 22) 4+4+8=16 Odd combination of friendly local on major road junction. Excellent service - turned down jukebox volume where I was sitting without being asked. GBG
(2016 - 4+5+8=17 A real locals' local, despite the main road. GBG)
(2018 - 4+4+8=16 Large comfortable traditional local pub, despite busy crossroads. GBG)
FLOWERPOT, Mirfield (Sept 19) 5+5+8=18 Typical Ossett pub with good vibes and beer. GBG
(2016 - 4+5+8=17 Typical good Ossett Brewery pub. GBG)
(2018 - 5+5+7=17 Well-refurbished Ossett pub. Admire the allotments as you walk from the moorings. GBG)
SAVILLE ARMS, Thornhill (May 31) 3+3+7=13 Walk up the lane from Bridge 29. Pleasant enough village pub with several small rooms but overloud music and smoke drifting in. Next to very impressive church.
CHERRY TREE, Horbury (Sept 18) 5+4+7=16 Rather blandly refurbished brewpub with own beers cheap and good, but little else of interest.
NAVIGATION, Calder Grove (June 1) 1+3+7=11 Large canalside family oriented pub trying to be everything. Blessedly peaceful on a Saturday evening, but rather dark.
CALDER VALE, Horbury Junction (Sept 13, 14, 15) 5+4+8=17 Characterful brewpub (Luddite beers) with simple large stone flagged rooms and little concession to comfort, but no music, telly or other intrusions. Reached from Broad Cut across the river via VERY creepy steel tube slung under the railway.
Aire & Calder Navigation and River Aire
GRAZIERS, Stanley (Jun 2) 4+4+7=15 Large main-road pub 15 mins walk from Stanley Ferry.
(2016 - 3+4+7=14 Acceptable. A trek from Stanley Ferry's awful 'pub')
ROBIN HOOD, Altofts (Jun 3, 13) 5+4+7=16 Large comfortable brewpub (Tarn 51 Brewing) with free food on Mondays. GBG
(2017 - 5+4+=17 A good unpretentious local with efficient staff coping on a very busy Saturday night. GBG)
(2018 - 5+3+7=15 Pub with microbrewery attached, but beer of variable quality. Regular book events. GBG)
HARK TO MOPSEY, Normanton (Jun 4) 5+3 +7 =15. Recently refurbished with a comfortable pleasant ambience and no music. Beer mediocre despite the efforts of the barman to get me a good pint. Worth visiting for the appearance and name.
GRIFFIN, Castleford (Jun 14) 5+4+8=17 Much improved canalside pub, a plain local with no music, but not very busy on a Friday night. GBG
BOAT, Allerton Bywater (Sept 12) 2+4+7=13 Pleasantly tatty, friendly riverside pub with much-improved moorings.
HORSE & JOCKEY, Hut Green (Sept 3) 0+3+6=9 No cask beer, despite the notice outside and info on Whatpub. Characterless makeover. Had a pint of Guinness then left.
GEORGE & DRAGON, Whiteley (Jun 18) 1+3+6=10 Rather neglected food-oriented roadhouse not worth the trek over from Whiteley Lock. Single beer from Watney's - didn't realise they still existed! Scottish notes not accepted.
BAY HORSE, Great Heck (Jun 17, 26, Sept 4) 3+4+8=15 Attractive re-vamp, improved beer and good service in this Old Mill Brewery outlet make Heck Bridge a favourite mooring once more.
(2016 - 2+3+6=11 A disappointment. Used to be excellent. GBG)
KING'S HEAD, Pollington (June 15) 3+3+6=12 Small open-plan pub, a village asset, but could be much better. Friendly service, but nothing special to deserve GBG
(2016 - 4+5+8=17 A friendly quiet village local. GBG)
(2017 - 3+3+7=13 Unremarkable, even uninteresting village pub with impersonal service. Disappointing.. GBG)
NORTH STAR MARINA CLUB, Goole (Jun 16) 1+4+7=12 Simple small friendly bar with a (needed) refurbishment.Pet chickens welcome. Closed Tues & Wed.
JENNY WREN, Beal (Jun 27) 1+4+8= 13 Basic old-fashioned friendly public bar. No music. Proper open fire for cold days.
That's it for Part 1. The disparate dates are due to this year's cruise being out and back instead of the usual Big Circle.
Part 2 will be (almost) all new ground - not for me, but for the Pub Cruises.
¡Hasta luego! as they say in Yorkshire.