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Showing content with the highest reputation on 18/11/19 in all areas

  1. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  4. Toll taking was done twice at Hawkesbury Junction up until 12th February 1909. Thereafter a single office was used and jointly funded by both companies but managed by the Oxford, which also explains the date of 1909 on the gable end of the toll office. The narrows on the Coventry side were closed by the toll clerks so boats could not sneak through and avoid paying before the toll office opened in the morning.
    2 points
  5. Perhaps you should invite them to deal with the issues as a matter of goodwill if it is outside the warranty period, and in exchange, you will show goodwill, by not attending the Crick Boat Show next year, with a selection of photos for prospective customers to look at.
    2 points
  6. What - instead of being pregnant ? Didn't Madonna do something similar ?
    2 points
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  10. Searching though Iplayer I came across this archive episode of Nairn across Britain from 1972 of a trip along the Leeds & Liverpool Canal https://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/p01rwfkm/nairn-across-britain-2-transpennine-canal
    1 point
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  12. If it was leaking back the pump would keep cutting in just like a tap dripping
    1 point
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  15. Presumably as it was second hand when you bought it, it was not purchased directly from Aintree. If it was purchased from a 'broker' who was representing / selling on behalf of an 'individual' and it was not sold as part of a business then you have no warranty. If it was owned by the broker selling it then you would be legally covered as long as you could prove 'it was not fit for purpose'. You have absolutely no come-back on Aintree and they were (legally) correct to tell you to 'go away'. This is why many people advise that you have a surveyor 'go-over' your potential purchase so you have someone to blame (rather than yourself) when the problems are not identified.
    1 point
  16. This one was GRP, quite sleak and quite fast too.
    1 point
  17. Thanks all. I will bung a new one in and take the old one to bits for the fun of it.
    1 point
  18. Cos he is the one that stole it and gave it a new name.
    1 point
  19. Few more settees , new chairs, a bit smarter but same customers, didn’t eat so can’t comment on food.
    1 point
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  21. Just a bit of fun and will act as a T/T the Cruiser.
    1 point
  22. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  23. Oh that's even odder. I took Halina's statement "formally know as little mouse with clogs on" to mean "formally known as little mouse with clogs on", but it appears she meant "formerly known as little mouse with clogs on".
    1 point
  24. Good little engine. We have had ours since 1997 bought new. It gets regular oil/plug changes.It did have a replacement carb at one stage, and is beginning to play up again now. There is something wrong on the float valve, fuel overflows the carb occasionally. This is followed by many minutes of gnashing and wailing while I remove the float bowl, usually whilst hanging out of the back of the dinghy, hoping not to drop the spanner. Let me know if you wanna sell it. I'll give you 200 quid for the lot. You can keep the anchor, fenders and lifejackets....I have far too many.
    1 point
  25. That is what convinced me to make an offer. I've seen the engines alone go for around that price, I was watching a 2.3m tender (only) which has a slow leak and that made over £100 Package included : CQR Anchor 2x Lifejackets (1x new with labels) 4x Fenders Which wouldn't normally come with a dinghy.
    1 point
  26. Yup - I was missing you so had to provide my own 'rubber'. Yes - a BF2. I've always run the carb dry when putting an outboard away saves all the problems of gumming up (particularly with 2-strokes)
    1 point
  27. Definitely better than that Brunel.
    1 point
  28. when you start with engine (beta 38), gearbox (prm), inverter (3kw pure sine), charger, webasto or eberspacher, fridge, cooker etc at the top of the list of materials and include a repaint (from a reputable firm) the bill adds up fast. the boat we were looking at was either 58ft or 65ft and had been totally underwater (roof submerged) for over a month so absolutely everything inside would have needed replacement.
    1 point
  29. More of a Post-it notebook that if you flick through quick enough works like a database, and I have several down the back of the sofa
    1 point
  30. Further, its easy to imagine ripping out all the spoiled interior is quick and easy. It most certainly isn't. Takes nearly as long to strip out the old stuff and deal with what else you reveal, as it takes to do the actual re-fit. Consequently I especially agree with Dave, if you're gonna take on this amount of work, better to do it on a brand new shell than in a knackered old patched up rust bucket.
    1 point
  31. I am not an expert: Firstly, quite a bit of the discussion has been about tidal, or semi tidal, rivers. As I have found out the hard way, level and speed on tidal waters are very complex and even long serving lock keepers can get their advice wrong at times. Secondly, two significant factors: what profile the channel has at any given point. For example, if a river section has a flood plain area outside the normal channel but with a flood bank further away, then I suspect the rate will drop quite dramatically once the level reaches that point. It will certainly vary across the width of the river. Also, a lot will depend on what is happening up and down stream. Is the water backing up against higher levels further down? What I have learnt in recent times is to have a lot of respect for water management professionals who are developing quite sophisticated models that help to predict what will happen in the short term and what also is the best (often a compromise) action to alleviate damage with the tools currently available. What is clear is that many amateur views, perhaps based on rather dated techniques, lead to loudly stated criticisms that have limited real substance.
    1 point
  32. As I understand it, speed and level are not exactly correlated
    1 point
  33. Springfields were just below maidenhead bridge on the Bucks bank in the 1960s. I go with Mr Norman's thoughts because at that time Springfields were producing a sort of catamaran hull based cruiser using two cut up Senior hulls. I don't know if they owned a mould or bought from Senior. I get the impression that at that time they were more boat fitters than actual builders so may be they also fitted out Senior hulls.
    1 point
  34. Ok folks. Thanks for your help. They do say I have Markzheimers. I assumed that the 3 screws in the bucket were from somewhere else. It is typical of me to take sensible precautions....and then forget what precautions I'd taken. Those precautions were to put all screws, bolts, seals and anything else in a certain place. The water pump leaked into the chamber above the metal housing between the burner and water interface. It came out of the hole as seen. I've now fitted it and tested it. It works great. Hot water for the 1st time since buying the boat. I'm t gave me a lot of confidence knowing that with your help it can be done.
    1 point
  35. Two questions asked by the OP that don’t appear to have been answered on my quick skim through the thread... PRV in this context is Pressure Relief Valve, not pressure reducing valve. The ‘hot water tank’ itself is what is commonly referred to as the calorifier.
    1 point
  36. Can't you siphon some pink antifreeze out of the header tank, putting a jar and add the universal antifreeze, to see if there is any adverse reaction? If there isn't, than you can add the universal antifreeze to the system, if there is then buy some pink antifreeze, check for compatibility, as above, and if OK add that.
    1 point
  37. Oh dear he's showing off his ginormous sparkly clean engine again. If it goes wrong there's an spare on the other side.....
    1 point
  38. I am unconvinced that family fallout us the major cause of homelessness but what is well documented is the rise in recent years of the numbers continuing to live in the parental home well beyond previous practice. If seems highly likely that this will lead to serious tensions and, in some cases, a forced departure into a context where alternative housing is difficult, even impossible within available finance. In the 1980s I was involved with a charity that was specifically formed to help young people, especially girls, 16 to 19, who were forcibly evicted by parents, typically where one was a step parent. I have not had any direct knowledge since then but I would be surprised if the underlying mechanisms were not still happening. Clearly, homelessness occurs across the whole 16+ age range. Prior self sufficiency us no insurance against finding oneself in dire straits. I can only be thankful that, at least as yet, i have not found myself in such despair.
    1 point
  39. and keeps proper good beer (more important ? than food)
    1 point
  40. You don't risk dying of exposure just because you don't get on with your parents. Sometimes you just don't like them beating you up much. And sometimes you don't want to say that on TV because they might find you and do it again. Sleeping in shop doorways is rarely someone's first choice as a lifestyle. "not getting on" covers a multitude of abusive circumstances. Most families are OK. Some are horrible.
    1 point
  41. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  42. I agree with Richard T, it certainly looks like South American Mahogany, and will have almost certainly been finished with French Polish, which does not like sustained contact with water. I have never tried an oil based varnish on French Polish, but think it should be ok. Before attacking the whole cabinet try experimemnting on a section which will not be visible when it is installed. Do not sand it as that could also remove the patina you wish to preserve. Preparing the surface will require any wax polish to be removed, for which I would suggest white spririt DO NOT use methylated spirit as it will remove the French Polish and damage the finished surface. Wipe the surface dry and to provide a key for the varnish, rub it down with 0000 grade steel wool, or a very fine scotch pad, removing the dust with Tack Cloths. The surface should then be ready for a varnish finish. Do not be tempted to use a cheap DIY varnish, use a good quality one, my preferred choice is Blackfriars, but any good brand will be OK. You may also wish to determine tha level of shine, Personally I like Satin finish which is softer on the eye than gloss, but that is your choice. you will need to apply at lead two coats of varnish and should lightly rub down between coats with very fine cabinet paper.
    1 point
  43. KELSO, yes Jeannette, I remember KELSO tied on the offside at Cowley in the eighties: https://hnbc.org.uk/boats/kelso
    1 point
  44. So the next step regarding ANVIL's history will be establishing where the date 1896 has come from. As this is a rather specific date can the new owner substantiate this in the form of a B.C.N. gauge plate and gauge number. For the owners benefit this will be a cast iron plate about 12 inches long and about 4 inches deep riveted longditudenally in the fore end or stern end or both of the hull. Cast into the plate(s) will be the letters BCN and below with be a number, and it is this number we need. There were 683 boats gauged by the B.C.N. Company in 1896, and about half of these were re-gaugings of older boats. Of the 683 boats gauged in 1896 65 are described as open iron (cabinless) and no more than 11 are described as cabin iron - with everything else being wooden. I also think it highly unlikely that ANVIL was ever part of a motor / butty pairing, although it is possible that it might have been pulled by a tug as well as a horse / man
    1 point
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