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I think selling your house to buy your first narrowboat is a bit risky thing to do, would rather buy a cheaper narrow boat and put house on rental market.

Thanks all. Been out this morning had had a look in the light of day and there rope tightly wrapped around it all removed now and it seems to go into and out of gear fine now. so will carry on with out journey to Gloucester. fingers crossed no lasting damage. thanks everyone again.

This thread is so old that Woolworths has gone out, most of the people have gone out, Kevs mums lasagne has gone cold and her new mini is now a classic car!

Have you seen her since the problems started ? I think we may know what's blocking your prop.

Lifted out. Washed and scraped Primed Anti-Fouled New anodes Everything packed and secured. Ready for the hoist and onto the truck Monday afternoon - arriving Menai Tuesday morning.

It was setting off in a rush one morning that did for us, a boat had just come up the lock and the lock-keeper was waiting for us so we went rushed and in went the rope. I was amazed at high tightly it had would wound the propshaft and wedges between the boat and stem. It tookover an hour to work it free. As for centreline length, I am in a minority, ithey need to be long enough to reach the steerer then with enough left to throw it up to crew in a moderately deep lock. This means it can foul the prop, the concept is to not drop it in. Front and rear ropes are a compromise, and about 10 metres is probably good, too long and they get in the way, but they must be long enough to cope with the deeper locks on the Thames. ................Dave

what has obesity got to do with it? ................................ oh! sorry! ...................................................... coat

I will increase my daily intake of prunes immediately ? Howard

Sounds a bit complicated for the ordinary Joe at the moment. I can live with killing a set of LA batteries within a couple of years, but am not prepared to take the chance with lithiums yet

Great news, well done. The ideal length for a centre rope is inches shorter than the distance between where you tie it on to the boat and your prop.

The ideal length in 10m in my experience. The plan is, don't let them fall in the water. Not that difficult, but we all do it once!!

Excellent news

To be fair, he is still alive. And I did have a life before monkeys ?? If it's the same piece of lasagne I could probably use it as a fire lighter by now. ?

But in the 4 months since the 'accident' there will have been some who have died, some who have newly joined and some who have left the forum so would today's vote be indicative of the thoughts 'at the time' ? Should we then have another vote in (say) 6 months to see if the 'thoughts of the people' has further changed ?

Yes, I think we knew it is all electric. From what you say, if they need no attention, the batteries must each have a built in BMS which seems to control things fine, and the Gel setting is ideal for them. I've tried Trojan T105s, and Rolls batteries, and have destroyed both, (sulphated), in about 2 years each . This despite being incredibly anal about battery charging - getting them to 100% at least every 2 days, and usually every day So I'm going to revert to using the "Smelly battery buying and managing system" when I buy my next set, probably some time next Spring

Yes, unless you are suggesting using them to moor up yer bote!

Be careful which marina is selected though, you never know ?

A few years ago I wound the stern rope on to the prop of a historic boat whilst reversing, and was keen to avoid hours with a hook or a dip in the River Wey in November. I'd seen it happening so was holding the rope with the engine running, having managed to get it into neutral. Fully expecting to be dragged off the boat, I put it in forward - and was astounded to see the rope unwind again as if it was coming off a reel. Was there anyone around to be impressed? 'Course not.

I bloomin' know you didn't!!!

That is how mine are, but I can understand some boaters wanting longer centre lines, depends how you actually boat, I wouldn't want to hop off as the boat went into a lock with my centre rope then go up the side of the lock with the rope in hand, I think it may be a bit short in some cases. For the Weaver locks I have to extend them

No, you've got to get within 7 miles to see it ?

There. Fixed it for you.

60A is certiainly too low for the boat houseboat application. No support for a bistable relay, so using a relay will cost you a continuous current draw for the coil. Charge termination just disconnects the battery, which risks frying the alternator and leaves the boat loads connected to the alternator or other sources without the battery in circuit, likely frying those too. The voltage limits are too high/low and not adjustable. The balancing function is probably not able to shunt enough current for big cells, and the balancing algorithm is likely based simply on cell voltage at top-of-charge. There's no "fuel gauge" functionality. There's no temperature sensing and alarm function. It's a lot of reading, but this: http://nordkyndesign.com/category/marine-engineering/electrical/lithium-battery-systems/ is the best source I've found on the requirements for this. MP.

2007! Kev! @BlueStringPudding

This is exactly my experience having bought and sold quite a lot over the years. Have sold two so far this year and both took three months as Richard says. Am one month into the process of buying another and nowhere near exchange yet.

Only if you followed my suggestion.... If you didn't, I CLAIM IT!!