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I've used it on cars Alan. I was trying to say, as gently as possible, that it won't restore dull narrowboat paintwork which has usually faded or become chalky through UV and loss of oils as you know. In truth, I think the use of a clay bar overkill for even the shiniest of shiny boats.

Go to a Beta agent? Tamworth/Rugby/Market Harborough Go to a Kubota agent? Further away. Local hire shop might have one on a kubota mini digger. Any plant hire firm will probably have a few. Borrow one off someone else as previously suggested would probably be easiset - they are all the same KX2 key as fitted to a wide range of plant.

When I needed a new flue I happened to have some offcuts of 1 mm stainless welded tube going spare and made it out of that just to see how long it would last, that was 3 years ago and its still the same thickness, and as soon as I got the stove back working I noticed a huge difference in that the thin flue was radiating tons of heat into the cabin instead of wasting it out of the chimney, it also largely cleans itself as it expands and contracts all the crud flakes off inside. I wouldn't fit a heavy mild steel flue again .

Oh, and now insults! Thank you for your kind words. You have copied and pasted a large chunk of what I’ve already read and I repeat, at no point does it mention the ‘power’ of an anode as you did in a previous post. It explains in baby language that the PD of an anode-hull circuit must be impressed if it cannot be achieved simply by selection of the anode type, depending on the circumstances of the boat wrt the electrolyte it’s sitting in. Obviously, the resultant circuit will use power as does any circuit but an anode does not itself possess power as you suggested earlier in this thread, it merely forms part of a circuit, either galvanic or impressed, which will result in energy being expended.

Or there's the cheap ''stand up bath'' method. Don a very loose fitting, very oversize wet suit. Heat a kettle of water to bath temperature. Pour into wet suit at the neck, squirt in some washing up liquid. Jump about and up and down for ten minutes to mix the liquid and water, to wash you thoroughly. Either lever apart a wet suit ankle or stand on head for five mins to drain. Remove wet suit, towel, talc and relax.

The thermoelectric generator puts out 100w of which 35w pumps the coolant and 60w powers a blower to cool the coolant radiator, which leaves 5w for you.?

Perpetual motion

Google agricultural dealers, theres one in hinkley, one outside Atherstone, most should have something that works

I hate that word ‘might’...

Nope. They are a bog standard kubota plant key available off ebay for a couple of quid, or from a Kubota dealer. It's the Kubota equivalent of the bog standard Lucas plant key.

So if you are on the K&A with a cruising range of 17.7 miles in a year, will you empty your 2 cans before CRT turn nasty??

My understanding is that CRT always go to court to have a liveaboard boat removed. CRT will only have movement records from just a few years ago (when they started tightening up) and no doubt have been in communication with the boater for 2 or 3 years about his lack of bona fide navigation, so I would not rate his chances of winning as highly as you do.

I know what goes on behind my closed doors, unfortunately what does go on is a lot less exciting than it was in my slightly wild youth

I’ve scanned it and don’t believe there’s anything in that which isn’t already understood on these boards. I also note that at no point do they refer to ‘power’.

Canalline 38 £5340 42 £6488 Vat included ?

Thinking about the op’s quoted text, I would have to include economics lecturers teaching PPE to future politicians as doing a pointless job. I wonder if he realises that..........

Power is amps multiplied by volts. A cell (often incorrectly called a battery, which is 2 or more cells wired together) consist of an anode and a cathode immersed in an electrolyte. There is a potential difference between the anode and cathode and if you connect a load between the anode and cathode a current will flow. Assuming that the load is appropriately sized there will be a potential difference (voltage) across the load and a current (Amps) will flow. So the power supplied by the cell to the load can be calculated.

Just thought I'd share my experiences on pulling my JP liners which I successfully did yesterday! Many thanks to all on this forum who's advice was a great help! I had the following plates laser profiled from 20 mm steel plate, and machined a register on the one which would locate on the underneath of the liners (I didn't want it slipping) I was then extremely fortunate to be able to borrow a 60 tonne hollow jack which sat on top, using some M30 studding to tie it all together. I was quite nervous about putting this much force across an old casting, however it ended up being quite anti-climatic - both liners came out with only 6 tons of force, with no bangs or alarming noises - just drifted out smoothly. I'm going to create a new post offering the three plates for anyone to borrow if they wish to use them themselves.

Ah yes, I made an assumption. From your dogged determination to ignore the simple solution staring you in the face and do things the hard way, I assumed you were a bloke. An easy mistake to make. And you would not be the first bloke on here claiming to be female, if it turns out I'm right.

They would do fine too, if a nice high power one is selected. The OP however, wants to "think outside the box", meaning he rejects all the obvious, practical and efficient methods in favour of difficult, awkward and less effective ways.

My boat is out of the water at a DIY yard for a bit of blacking and other maintenance. In the water by my trolley is a new looking boat that the owner has been visiting doing a few bits and pieces inside. I had a chat with him briefly, about his "new boat" and he told me that he bought the shell 3 years ago, eventually painted it, and is just getting round to finishing it off.... maybe. He's a joiner by trade and said he thought it would be a straightforward and simple, (for him), thing to do. I got the impression that, with hindsight, he wishes he had bought a secondhand turnkey boat. To the OP: Whatever the shell might cost you in China, I dont think £30k is going to come close to what it will cost you to buy and import the shell, store it for a few years, and fit it out. Nor does it seem to make sense as an investment or for retirement, (in 30+ years or so?).

"be aware, water is more often than not stored in a cylindrical vessel for good reason."

Tinkin outside da box-boat. Mount bath upon bricks on towpath. Fill with canal water. Light a fire of sticks beneath it. Wait one hour precisely to heat up. Jump in with toy boat or duck.

If running costs is an issue, then I think that solar thermal would provide an abundance of piping hot water. The downside is that this option is only viable from April to Sept!! We have solar thermal at home and it is fantastic. Many, many deep baths provided courtesy of the sunshine. Cheap to install evacuated tubes and pumping station - just need a coil to run it through a storage cylinder to heat the water. Simples.

But perhaps not as implausible as the classic car exemption. I can't figure that one out at all.

Enforcement on the K&A is pretty strict and as far as I am aware almost all of the boats are moving at least every 14 days. There are quite a few long term moorings down that way but otherwise I am not sure how you can "clearly" see that most have not moved for months or years. There are a small number that are not moving but these will already be in the enforcement process or granted an exception. .............Dave

I agree with Mike that switching to EVs alone is not enough and it does feel rather like pissing in the wind. There is not one single thing that will solve the climate emergency problem so it's no good saying "X is a waste of time, we need to stop doing Y as that is a bigger problem". Yes, we need to stop using fossil fuels for our own personal transportation, which is why I am in favour of switching to EVs as they use less, albeit not zero depending on the generation mix. But we also need to stop flying, stop going on cruise ships, stop buying stuff shipped half way round the world, stop buying landfill tat, eat much much less meat (especially beef and lamb), have a much more plant-based diet, stop heating our homes and offices with fossil fuels, stop cutting down Brazilian forests, stop electing people like Donald Chump and lots more besides. It just goes on and on. Some of this is starting to happen slowly. Some of it there is little or no sign of yet. I expect these things will start to accelerate eventually but only when it becomes blindingly obvious to everyone, including the afore mentioned Chump and his ilk, that the human race is to blame. Unfortunately, by then it will probably be too late and we will a!ready be into runaway climate change that will ultimately result in extinction of our species and probably most others as well. It may already be too late. I think it probably is. But that doesn't mean we should give up. Whilst there's still life there's still hope so I will continue to try to do my bit. I reduce/re-use/recycle. I do not fly. I try to reduce unnecessary car journeys and try to drive with a light right foot. I don't light my stove in the middle of August, no need, I have additional layers of clothing I can put on.I I don't overheat my (reasonably) well-insulated house I have solar panels so I can minimise engine running on non-cruising days. I try to eat less meat. Especially beef and lamb. And so on. I admit I don't do enough of the above. I need to do better. But it's a start and I am trying. Sadly though, I think it will all ultimately prove to be futile and the human race has totally screwed itself. It probably won't be our generation that pays the price though, it will be our children and their children, and there will be much pain and suffering along the way. But looking on the bright side, the sun is out after a miserable non-cruising rainy day yesterday, so I can go cruising today and burn up some more fossil fuel along the way. But I will only do 2 or 3 hours and I will keep the revs down. Every little helps I suppose. Happy daze.

No it means they are reliable. Buying cheap unreliable engines will ultimately cost a hire company more in extra call outs and loss and goodwill with customers.

Having used the double glazing film successfully last winter, I ordered some cut to size acrylic sheet last week. It arrived today, which was fortunate, as it was very cold here last night and the windows were covered with condensation this morning. I had also ordered self adhesive magnetic seal, to attach the acrylic to the frames and started fitting at 5.30 this evening,. The windows are all aproximately 1200x600mm, with flat wooden surrounds, typical of most modern fitouts. I removed the hoppers, although the opening glasses would be self supporting on the frame if I needed to open any. My wife and I cleaned the windows thoroughly, and sealed the drainage holes with sealastic, then sprinkled some silica gel crystals from Wilkinsons into the channels, to absorb any moisture between the frames. We then stuck one half of the self adhesive magnetic seal tape to the outer edges of one of the sheets, making sure there were no gaps. The other half of the tape was then magnetically attached to the stuck tape, again allowing no gaps. We then peeled off the backing from the adhesive side and, after lining the sheet up carefully, pushed the sheet against the wooden frame, pressing it down hard all the way round. We had the whole job, seven windows, finished by 8.30. Because the acrylic is glass clear and 3mm thick, it looks just like glass. We also used brown magnetic seal, which is far less obvious than white. The acrylic should also be a better thermal insulator than the film was, can be cleaned very easily and can be lifted off in seconds if required. Because it is attached to the wooden window surrounds, it also stops condensation on the aluminium window frames and the air gap is a good sound insulator. We may trim arround the edge with a wood strip, but it does look pretty neat already and is a vast improvement over the film. As all the sheets are the same size and only 4.5mm thick including the seal, they will all stack only 30mm deep behind the sofa for summer storage and of course are infinitely reuseable, taking only seconds to refit. The whole lot was only £222.97 including delivery, which I think is peanuts for years of repeated use. If anyone wants a picture of a finished window or any info on an acrylic supplier, I'd be glad to post. Roger