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  1. Just want to say a very big thank you to the CRT guys at Hurleston today, although they are only there to operate the first 2 locks as soon as they realised i was single crewed they locked me through all 4 , one guy in particular running between the locks to set both the previous lock for the next boat as well as the locks ahead of me, I certainly have no problems operating the locks myself as i do it all the time, but it was particularly welcome as it was raining and it gave me a chance to grab a hot cuppa, so thanks again guys Rick
    7 points
  2. Does this help: Buying a Second Hand Narrowboat People who have hired or share owned boats for years will know what features they want in a boat, but people who have only had the odd holiday will almost certainly not - they may think they know but after a year's boating they often change their minds. If insufficient time is given to deciding what you want it may turn out to be an expensive mistake. Hire brochures show internal plans and outside pictures. Boat shows and visiting brokers give the opportunity to go over boats. Do not be tempted to part with money at this stage. Whatever else you do take time visiting boats and seeing how plans work in practice. Think about getting right through the boat in an emergency, how using the toilet/shower/galley will affect people moving through the boat and where your guests will sit in the open. Most important of all, gentlemen, involve your partner otherwise you might get a quick course in single-handing! Having defined what you think you need hire a few similar boats. Make sure some trips are in the winter, you may alter your plans! This will give the opportunity to sample different types of equipment like heating, toilets, cookers, engine type, the need for a cratch & cover (the “tent” at the front) and type of water tank (some need regular cleaning and painting). Try walking along the outside of the hull and decide what style of handrail you feel safest with. Use the opportunity to talk to boaters you meet. Most will happily tell you why they chose what they did and some may show you over their boat. Hiring also gives a yardstick to judge boats against. Read the newsgroups and other boat related sites on the internet and do not be afraid to ask for advice - you will probably get too much, a lot conflicting. Download or send for the latest Boat Safety Scheme regulations, study and learn them. This will allow you to judge the validity of a boat's certificate.. Before you start looking at boats with an intention to actually purchase visit any local builders who are renovating old properties. Ask them if they have any wet or dry rot that you can smell. You need to remember this musty, mushroomy smell. Boat hulls come in a variety of “qualities”. Bottom of the range will always fetch low prices however good you make them look. A top range hull bought in poor condition will fetch a good price once you smarten it. Most, but not all, narrowboats are built on an absolutely flat base-plate that is slightly wider than the actual boat so it protects the welds and lower part of the hull side. A mid-range narrow boat today will have a specification of 10-6-4. This means the base-plate is 10mm thick, the hull sides 6mm thick and the cabin sides and roof 4mm thick. If there is an extra number quoted it is the thickness of the roof. A cheaper hull may be 8-5-3 and older boats may have 6mm or thinner base plates. Now you can use the sales sheet to get an impression of hull quality. Generally the bigger the numbers the better. Typically better quality hulls have longer the swims (The “pointy” bits at either end). Expect them to be between 6 and 8 feet long on a mid-range hull. Now inspect the welds on the cabin sides. Cheap boats will have wavy cabin sides and the welds standing proud as shown. Mid range hulls will have the welds ground flush, but you will still see indentations unless someone has filled them with body filler (see fig). Top class hulls should have no visible welds and the cabin sides should be absolutely flat. You should now be able to tell if the price of the boat reflects its underlying value. Inspect the hull for signs of rust pitting. Look around the waterline and below any vents in the hull (sink/basin drain, gas tank drain, and exhaust). On a modern hull pits of less than 0.5mm or so should cause no concern. A few larger ones can be filled with weld when the boat is being blacked. Check the anodes (Silvery lumps of metal perhaps 12" x 4" x 1" welded to the hull by a steel bar, often two at the front and back) Very pitted and eroded anodes or missing anodes indicate poor maintenance and cost cutting in the past. Remember that a private seller can almost lie with impunity whilst a broker will have a clause in all their descriptions saying that anything in the sales brochure might be untrue so check the hull specification. T Buying a Second Hand Narrowboat People who have hired or share owned boats for years will know what features they want in a boat, but people who have only had the odd holiday will almost certainly not - they may think they know but after a year's boating they often change their minds. If insufficient time is given to deciding what you want it may turn out to be an expensive mistake. Hire brochures show internal plans and outside pictures. Boat shows and visiting brokers give the opportunity to go over boats. Do not be tempted to part with money at this stage. Whatever else you do take time visiting boats and seeing how plans work in practice. Think about getting right through the boat in an emergency, how using the toilet/shower/galley will affect people moving through the boat and where your guests will sit in the open. Most important of all, gentlemen, involve your partner otherwise you might get a quick course in single-handing! Having defined what you think you need hire a few similar boats. Make sure some trips are in the winter, you may alter your plans! This will give the opportunity to sample different types of equipment like heating, toilets, cookers, engine type, the need for a cratch & cover (the “tent” at the front) and type of water tank (some need regular cleaning and painting). Try walking along the outside of the hull and decide what style of handrail you feel safest with. Use the opportunity to talk to boaters you meet. Most will happily tell you why they chose what they did and some may show you over their boat. Hiring also gives a yardstick to judge boats against. Read the newsgroups and other boat related sites on the internet and do not be afraid to ask for advice - you will probably get too much, a lot conflicting. Download or send for the latest Boat Safety Scheme regulations, study and learn them. This will allow you to judge the validity of a boat's certificate.. Before you start looking at boats with an intention to actually purchase visit any local builders who are renovating old properties. Ask them if they have any wet or dry rot that you can smell. You need to remember this musty, mushroomy smell. Boat hulls come in a variety of “qualities”. Bottom of the range will always fetch low prices however good you make them look. A top range hull bought in poor condition will fetch a good price once you smarten it. Most, but not all, narrowboats are built on an absolutely flat base-plate that is slightly wider than the actual boat so it protects the welds and lower part of the hull side. A mid-range narrow boat today will have a specification of 10-6-4. This means the base-plate is 10mm thick, the hull sides 6mm thick and the cabin sides and roof 4mm thick. If there is an extra number quoted it is the thickness of the roof. A cheaper hull may be 8-5-3 and older boats may have 6mm or thinner base plates. Now you can use the sales sheet to get an impression of hull quality. Generally the bigger the numbers the better. Typically better quality hulls have longer the swims (The “pointy” bits at either end). Expect them to be between 6 and 8 feet long on a mid-range hull. Now inspect the welds on the cabin sides. Cheap boats will have wavy cabin sides and the welds standing proud as shown. Mid range hulls will have the welds ground flush, but you will still see indentations unless someone has filled them with body filler (see fig). Top class hulls should have no visible welds and the cabin sides should be absolutely flat. You should now be able to tell if the price of the boat reflects its underlying value. Inspect the hull for signs of rust pitting. Look around the waterline and below any vents in the hull (sink/basin drain, gas tank drain, and exhaust). On a modern hull pits of less than 0.5mm or so should cause no concern. A few larger ones can be filled with weld when the boat is being blacked. Check the anodes (Silvery lumps of metal perhaps 12" x 4" x 1" welded to the hull by a steel bar, often two at the front and back) Very pitted and eroded anodes or missing anodes indicate poor maintenance and cost cutting in the past. Remember that a private seller can almost lie with impunity whilst a broker will have a clause in all their descriptions saying that anything in the sales brochure might be untrue so check the hull specification. Try to borrow (or even buy - £12 from Screwfix) a 0 to 25mm micrometer. You are only interested in measuring to the nearest mm which is dead easy. (see diagram). Measure the thickness through the drains for the front cockpit and through engine room vents or where the gunnels turns over in the cockpit. Measure the roof and cabin side where it overhangs at the front or back. In all these cases allow say 0.5 mm for paint thickness. If the boat is ashore you can measure the base plate “overhang” - expect it to be worn. Now inspect the cabin sides and roof. Areas of rust that are not very pitted may lower the price, but as long as they are in full view they are repairable during painting. If, however, you see rust bubbles emanating from (say) behind a window frame there is a problem. Unless you take the frame out, fully treat the rust and repaint, the rust will keep creeping out from below the frame, and as the steel below the frame rusts it expands, pushing the frame away from the side, giving rise to leaks. Look inside cockpit lockers and all round the engine room to ensure the inside of the hull is not badly pitted. Walk through the boat sniffing and looking around windows, chimneys and roof vents. Wet cloth and rot smells tells you there is a problem with the woodwork. “Toilet” smells may indicate a lack of cleanliness or it may indicate a leaking toilet tank, low quality toilet hoses or even a gas leak. Black streaks in the wood or "water marks", bowing gaps (see fig 6), delamination of plywood or blockboard and swelling MDF all indicate present or past water leaks. At the same timed look for signs of “Conti-board” or other chipboard. This is not suitable for damp environments. Good quality fit-outs will use solid wood and possibly plywood, whilst cheaper fit outs use a lot of MDF - look in the base of any routed features. If it’s a uniform brown with no marked grain its MDF. Look in the internal channels of the windows. If they are full of moss etc the long term care of the boat is suspect, as it is if rubber cord is pulled out of place (between glass and frame) and is lying across the corners of the window. (see fig) Unscrew a switch or speaker so you can check the type and thickness of thermal insulation. Look under the gunnels and in the back of cupboards to find the wiring. This should be clipped up in neat bundles and if any individual cable feels “stiff” when bent between two fingers and the thumb it is probably solid strand domestic cable that will fracture in time. If you find any “flat” “three strand” mains cable (not mains flex) it is again an indication of poor fitting out unless it is a very old boat. Light every gas burner and ensure they all work and none burn with a yellow flame. If the fridge is gas then light that and again ensure there is no yellow in the flame. Test all the electrical equipment. The more that does not work the worse the boat has been looked after. Turn on a number of lights and operate the water pump or electric toilet, if the lights dim noticeably there is a problem. If its not flat batteries it is probably expensive and may be dangerous.. Now turn your attention to the bilges. Most boats built over the last 20 years will be of the two-bilge design. An accommodation bilge that is separated from the engine or stern bilge; but there are a few exceptions. Older boats may have “all in one” bilges, a front, accommodation, and engine bilge (again separate) or the front bilge may be piped through the accommodation bilge into the engine bilge. At the back of the cabin, usually under the steps or in a cupboard there should be a trap to give access to the accommodation bilge. The bilge should be dry in an insulated boat. If it is not it indicates leaking, possibly windows, water system, toilet system, or shower/bath system and pump. If it’s the latter you may well see soap scum or smell the soap. If you have turned the water pump on and you hear it running now and again it may well indicate a domestic water leak. If the water is clear and the pump is silent then it is probably condensation or window leaks. Very often this is the area where wood rot can be found You can expect the baseplate to be rusty on an older boat and it is of little consequence unless either the baseplate is thin or deeply pitted (say 1mm +). There should not be any wet carpet or floor covering in this area. If there is water present or wet floor coverings question the maintenance. Now look at the engine - make it clear to the vendor/broker that you will be running the engine and checking the gearbox. Look into the engine coolant header tank. The level should be at least an inch below the filler neck, but it can be far lower as long as you can see the coolant. It should not be thick and brown like cocoa, the colour of the antifreeze should be visible. Very rusty, “thick” water indicates a lack of maintenance and possible corrosion inside the cooling system. Run your hand over the batteries and engine. If you feel warmth make another appointment and insist that the batteries are not charged or the engine without you being present. If there are any explanations or excuses as to why the batteries needed charging just before viewing or why they are flat question the charging system and estimate between £60 and £120 per battery for new ones. The engine should start easily from cold and any white smoke should stop after a few minutes. If the engine is equipped with heater/glow plugs allow up to 30 seconds for these to do their job. The longer it takes to start and the more/longer it smokes the worse condition the engine is in. Move the control lever to ahead and rev the engine. Note how long it takes for the propeller shaft to start to rotate. Repeat with reverse. Both should take similar time for the shaft to come up to speed and the longer it takes the more chance the gearbox is worn out. A clang or thud as the gears engage may indicate a faulty drive plate or gearbox. Leave the engine running. Inspect the batteries. If they have grown “fur” on the terminals the boat has not been well looked after. If the end of any battery is bowing out and swelling the battery is nearing the end of its life. The larger the bow the shorter its remaining life. At either side of the engine and behind it there is a bilge where there may be a little water but there should be no oil. If the whole area is covered in black oil with pieces of dirt or rag floating in it the boat has not been well looked after. Under the engine there should be a sealed area. I would like to see this clean and free from all oil and water. A bilge blanket here to absorb and oil or fuel drips shows care. Again if this area is full of oil and water the boat has not been maintained well. Ideally the whole of the area should be well painted with little signs of rust, a film of dust and the odd oily area is acceptable. There should be no major oil or rust streaks on the engine, no build up of oily dirt and no pools of oil or water on it. Now the engine is getting warm, take the oil filler cap off and rev the engine. There will be a certain amount of pressure coming from the filler (compare with other boats and even your car) but excess pressure or smoky fumes indicate engine problems. If there is a pressure gauge check the oil pressure. On a modern (not air cooled Listers) expect more than 15psi on idle and over 35psi when revving when hot. Stop the engine, pause, and check the engine and gearbox dipstick for level. The engine oil should be fairly black but runny. Water gives oils a whitish tinge, this is a bad sign. Smell the engine oil, if you can smell diesel there is a problem. At last - take the boat for a run, if a river is nearby give it a bit of an upstream thrash to ensure the engine does not overheat or make excessive smoke. Compare the vibration, noise and "stopping ability" with the boats you hired. If you are still satisfied it is time to make an offer "subject to survey" and make sure it is understood that final price is dependant upon the survey. Now you only have to find a legal mooring! ry to borrow (or even buy - £12 from Screwfix) a 0 to 25mm micrometer. You are only interested in measuring to the nearest mm which is dead easy. (see diagram). Measure the thickness through the drains for the front cockpit and through engine room vents or where the gunnels turns over in the cockpit. Measure the roof and cabin side where it overhangs at the front or back. In all these cases allow say 0.5 mm for paint thickness. If the boat is ashore you can measure the base plate “overhang” - expect it to be worn. Now inspect the cabin sides and roof. Areas of rust that are not very pitted may lower the price, but as long as they are in full view they are repairable during painting. If, however, you see rust bubbles emanating from (say) behind a window frame there is a problem. Unless you take the frame out, fully treat the rust and repaint, the rust will keep creeping out from below the frame, and as the steel below the frame rusts it expands, pushing the frame away from the side, giving rise to leaks. Look inside cockpit lockers and all round the engine room to ensure the inside of the hull is not badly pitted. Walk through the boat sniffing and looking around windows, chimneys and roof vents. Wet cloth and rot smells tells you there is a problem with the woodwork. “Toilet” smells may indicate a lack of cleanliness or it may indicate a leaking toilet tank, low quality toilet hoses or even a gas leak. Black streaks in the wood or "water marks", bowing gaps (see fig 6), delamination of plywood or blockboard and swelling MDF all indicate present or past water leaks. At the same timed look for signs of “Conti-board” or other chipboard. This is not suitable for damp environments. Good quality fit-outs will use solid wood and possibly plywood, whilst cheaper fit outs use a lot of MDF - look in the base of any routed features. If it’s a uniform brown with no marked grain its MDF. Look in the internal channels of the windows. If they are full of moss etc the long term care of the boat is suspect, as it is if rubber cord is pulled out of place (between glass and frame) and is lying across the corners of the window. (see fig) Unscrew a switch or speaker so you can check the type and thickness of thermal insulation. Look under the gunnels and in the back of cupboards to find the wiring. This should be clipped up in neat bundles and if any individual cable feels “stiff” when bent between two fingers and the thumb it is probably solid strand domestic cable that will fracture in time. If you find any “flat” “three strand” mains cable (not mains flex) it is again an indication of poor fitting out unless it is a very old boat. Light every gas burner and ensure they all work and none burn with a yellow flame. If the fridge is gas then light that and again ensure there is no yellow in the flame. Test all the electrical equipment. The more that does not work the worse the boat has been looked after. Turn on a number of lights and operate the water pump or electric toilet, if the lights dim noticeably there is a problem. If its not flat batteries it is probably expensive and may be dangerous.. Now turn your attention to the bilges. Most boats built over the last 20 years will be of the two-bilge design. An accommodation bilge that is separated from the engine or stern bilge; but there are a few exceptions. Older boats may have “all in one” bilges, a front, accommodation, and engine bilge (again separate) or the front bilge may be piped through the accommodation bilge into the engine bilge. At the back of the cabin, usually under the steps or in a cupboard there should be a trap to give access to the accommodation bilge. The bilge should be dry in an insulated boat. If it is not it indicates leaking, possibly windows, water system, toilet system, or shower/bath system and pump. If it’s the latter you may well see soap scum or smell the soap. If you have turned the water pump on and you hear it running now and again it may well indicate a domestic water leak. If the water is clear and the pump is silent then it is probably condensation or window leaks. Very often this is the area where wood rot can be found You can expect the baseplate to be rusty on an older boat and it is of little consequence unless either the baseplate is thin or deeply pitted (say 1mm +). There should not be any wet carpet or floor covering in this area. If there is water present or wet floor coverings question the maintenance. Now look at the engine - make it clear to the vendor/broker that you will be running the engine and checking the gearbox. Look into the engine coolant header tank. The level should be at least an inch below the filler neck, but it can be far lower as long as you can see the coolant. It should not be thick and brown like cocoa, the colour of the antifreeze should be visible. Very rusty, “thick” water indicates a lack of maintenance and possible corrosion inside the cooling system. Run your hand over the batteries and engine. If you feel warmth make another appointment and insist that the batteries are not charged or the engine without you being present. If there are any explanations or excuses as to why the batteries needed charging just before viewing or why they are flat question the charging system and estimate between £60 and £120 per battery for new ones. The engine should start easily from cold and any white smoke should stop after a few minutes. If the engine is equipped with heater/glow plugs allow up to 30 seconds for these to do their job. The longer it takes to start and the more/longer it smokes the worse condition the engine is in. Move the control lever to ahead and rev the engine. Note how long it takes for the propeller shaft to start to rotate. Repeat with reverse. Both should take similar time for the shaft to come up to speed and the longer it takes the more chance the gearbox is worn out. A clang or thud as the gears engage may indicate a faulty drive plate or gearbox. Leave the engine running. Inspect the batteries. If they have grown “fur” on the terminals the boat has not been well looked after. If the end of any battery is bowing out and swelling the battery is nearing the end of its life. The larger the bow the shorter its remaining life. At either side of the engine and behind it there is a bilge where there may be a little water but there should be no oil. If the whole area is covered in black oil with pieces of dirt or rag floating in it the boat has not been well looked after. Under the engine there should be a sealed area. I would like to see this clean and free from all oil and water. A bilge blanket here to absorb and oil or fuel drips shows care. Again if this area is full of oil and water the boat has not been maintained well. Ideally the whole of the area should be well painted with little signs of rust, a film of dust and the odd oily area is acceptable. There should be no major oil or rust streaks on the engine, no build up of oily dirt and no pools of oil or water on it. Now the engine is getting warm, take the oil filler cap off and rev the engine. There will be a certain amount of pressure coming from the filler (compare with other boats and even your car) but excess pressure or smoky fumes indicate engine problems. If there is a pressure gauge check the oil pressure. On a modern (not air cooled Listers) expect more than 15psi on idle and over 35psi when revving when hot. Stop the engine, pause, and check the engine and gearbox dipstick for level. The engine oil should be fairly black but runny. Water gives oils a whitish tinge, this is a bad sign. Smell the engine oil, if you can smell diesel there is a problem. At last - take the boat for a run, if a river is nearby give it a bit of an upstream thrash to ensure the engine does not overheat or make excessive smoke. Compare the vibration, noise and "stopping ability" with the boats you hired. If you are still satisfied it is time to make an offer "subject to survey" and make sure it is understood that final price is dependant upon the survey. Now you only have to find a legal mooring!
    5 points
  3. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  4. So that's where she ended up. ?
    3 points
  5. UPDATE! Fitted Dr Bob's used BMV 501 on Monday and hey presto, all is working as it should! So my corrupt/naff 501 is heading for the bin. A big THANKS to Bob and Pam, it was lovely meeting you both!
    3 points
  6. If it was "darn sarf" (well London anyway) it would be welcomed as it would remove the need to move every14 days... ?
    3 points
  7. To be fair, I don't think I've ever had a volunteer tell me they do it because they want to help boaters: they usually say it is to give them something to do, get them out of the house, and enjoy the interaction with people. One made me laugh when he said if he stayed at home the missus would only find him something less interesting to do!
    3 points
  8. The vollies give up their own time volunteering for free. Why the heck should they work out in the pouring rain for hours if they don't wish to. Would you? Or do you?
    3 points
  9. I don't, but then it took me the whole of my working life in a very demanding career just to be able to afford to buy and run a boat and I also pay for a mooring, so I clearly don't know how to work the system properly.
    3 points
  10. This afternoon the electric lift bridge at Wrenbury decided to play up, within 30 minutes 2 guys arrived and sorted it, thats twice in 24 hours i have been greatful of their service, well done guys another email to the area office to tell them what a great job your doing Rick?
    2 points
  11. Had many happy years on the canals, then bought the 'fat-boat' (the 14 foot beam cruiser NOT the 23 foot beam Catamaran) and had the last 4 years on the Rivers - costs seem to be ever increasing, and the new 'owners' at BWML are after their 'pound of flesh'. I have had one boat in BWML Kings Marina for about 7 or 8 years and another boat in BWML - Hull for a couple of years (both at the same time) so they have had a fair few pennies from me. Last year we moved the boat from Hull down to Plymouth, but having negotiated a 'loyalty discount' kept the other one at Kings. This year an almost £500 increase in mooring fees at Kings and after discussions "no discounts allowed on instruction of the management - they need to increase their income to fund the planned improvements" means we will be moving on. - as it happens, our mooring is shown as being one of those that is being made into a 'floating homes' mooring, so we'd be moved anyway. My fees at Kings : 2016/17 £1369 2017/18 £1739 2018/19 £1763 2019/20 £2220 I suggested that they may regret their stance as they lose more moorers than they gain from their increases - I was told that my concerns would be passed onto 'Senior management'. So, its time to move onwards and upwards. It looks like it will be Lowestoft we'll head to. £1800 per annum, No Licence fees, No BSS, no worries. It is 2 1/2 hours (111 miles from home) but Que Será, Será.
    2 points
  12. 2 points
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. I think it would be incumbent upon C&RT to make sure the amended reduced width dimensions were widely available, including at either end of the canal and on the approaches to the narrowed section. I think too it would then be up to all interested parties to contest the right of C&RT to arbitrarilly reduce the dimensions of that particular waterway given the historic use by previous vessels of the original dimensions.
    2 points
  15. Mike the Boilerman is...Victor Meldrew ! ("I don't belieeeeve it")
    2 points
  16. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  17. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  18. Is that why the dog-walker is stooping? (Seen at Stoke middle lock)
    1 point
  19. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  20. Roland and I both revelled in the Small Woolwich Vegetable Bottom Traumas at the same time. Although Rigal had a float operated pump I still habitually slept with one hand dangling over the bed. Marcellus only having a standard car battery on clips for easy removal and charging, I concocted another float switch but attached this to a siren. I was tempted by "Anthony" as well until I saw elm bottoms, I'm too old now to start ripping up flooring at a moment's notice trying to trace the origin of a steady weep emanating from the side of the kelson which probably originated umpty twelveteen feet away. And you always had to move newly filled water tanks in order to realise it was unreachable because it was under the kelson or a knee. Between dockings I was a master with greasy string and tingle patches. Near the end of my time with them I had also learnt how to make Epoxy Araldite set under water. And then laying underneath them every two years hammering oakum up hill two inches from your face. The vibrations causing lumps of muddy detritus to drop in your mouth. Every two years, having enjoyed my Easter holiday in such manner I'd return to work safe in the knowledge that within a few days I'd have gastro enteritis. Of course the easy solution to dribbly bottoms wasn't really available, namely throw 20 tons in each one and drag them for miles through the silt that passes for the cut these days.
    1 point
  21. Well, I'm not sure, but to be honest, it would be a better idea if folks worked for a living if they were able, and those that weren't got support.
    1 point
  22. Down the Avon, preferably without rushing. It's delightful.
    1 point
  23. Pah! That’s just the Corniche. A hairdresser’s car...
    1 point
  24. It was in this bit of video at about 3:40: Maybe they took tadpole up to Cowley lock with a smarter butty just for the film? Or maybe it was a change boat? Shes certainly well turned out especially if she wasn't a permanent home.
    1 point
  25. Only if the batteries are quite low. Otherwise it’s just a spinny thing that’s not doing much.
    1 point
  26. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  27. The boat name database that used to be on Jim Shead's site is now on Canalplan.eu, more well know as a trip planner. Maybe you followed a link there from Jim's site? Jen
    1 point
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  29. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  30. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  31. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  32. On local news and BBC today. (www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-gloucestershire-48192906) Also in Gloucestershire live.
    1 point
  33. But measuring the width at specific points doesn't account for any non straightness over the full length of a boat. Take a banana as an example, at it widest point it might be 1" but draw two parallel lines touching the two edges and it might be 2" wide so could be a big difference over the length of a boat.
    1 point
  34. The southern GU is much maligned. When we had share boats, They were based at Gayton and Blisworth for a couple of years, so we often travelled South. The scenery is neither outstanding or awful, but generally pleasant. Back in the early 90's we took a we travelled from Stockton Top to Little Venice and that was very enjoyable, because it pre dated the invasion of the London canals by those seeking cheap homes.
    1 point
  35. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  36. And eventually the South Oxford summit ruined by HS2. God, I hope that project dies a death and is never built. Maybe than I can spend my final years here in peace without having to move.
    1 point
  37. Personally i dont see why there is all the conjecture as to what motivates someone to help .... They help in their own time dont ask for payment or reward just a little courtesy and a thank you, I for one applaud any effort they or any others such as JP do to help, keep and improve this system we all love to enjoy. Rick
    1 point
  38. This morning's weather is the reason I did 5 1/2 hours yesterday, rather than the usual 3, otherwise I would have been caught by the stoppage. The forecast (and rain radar) suggests this afternoon will be quite a bit better so I expect a lot of boats will be on the move after sitting out the morning rain. That's my plan for the day anyway
    1 point
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  40. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  41. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  42. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  43. I'm surprised Peterboat isn't recommending you get a big solar panel and the motor from an ecofan!!
    1 point
  44. How do you know the motorbike was stolen?
    1 point
  45. I wasn't being sarcastic! You have started or contributed to several threads doing nothing but complain about how CaRT aren't doing something that YOU think should be done or done in a particular way, and do not seem to accept that they obviously know better than you, since they have the experts to deal with these things. I would suggest that the ugliness is more in your negativity.
    1 point
  46. So, the pic from Facebook was posted publically by NABO and credited to Dru Maryland, so I will attempt to attach it to this reply. The boat was going down the lock, and the bottom gates are open. There is clear water visible between the boat and the lock wall, but the boat is stuck half way out of the lock. The boat is the Toggenberg, which is listed as 13ft 6in, and has apparently passed the same lock previously without issue. Conclusion: the wing wall rebuild may now be narrower than the lock. CRT implicitly blaming the boat for being wider than their "published dimension" of 4m is obfuscation and diversion, the real questions are why have their contractors rebuilt the walls significantly narrower than the lock, and why have CRT unilaterally reduced the maximum beam by at least 4.5in (and maybe as much as 7.5in)?
    1 point
  47. I think most professional boat painters' advice would be to decline the job if the windows can't come out.
    1 point
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