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The headline power figures on computer stuff is useless. A PC might have an 800W power supply, but that only says it can supply 800W running some extreme application that draws that at its peak. Say video rendering in a high end game. Other headline energy usage figures will be marketing ones designed to make it look better than it is. The only way to go is real world measurement under your usage conditions. Stick an energy monitor on your existing mains computing items and see what they use in practice doing the sort of things you need to do. You need total kWHr's used for each item after a typical days work. This can be easily converted in to AHrs from the battery. Not knowing what your work is, I don't know what sort of energy they will take out of the batteries. The computing side of things will take power depending on how hard the cpu is working. Very hard for something like video processing. Not at all hard for simple web development. A faster computer will do the processor quicker, but use similar amounts of energy in doing it and have similar drain on the batteries. The only advantage of a newer computer is that the chips are smaller and use less power as time goes on, excepting the very latest, which can be a bit leaky. Real world measurements under your normal work conditions are the only thing to be sure. Similarly monitors. Real world measurement. The big current drain with monitors are the backlight, so smaller is better, running it dimmer and a newer monitor with LED backlight will be better. If you need a huge monitor and true colour representation for work, then that has an energy cost to your batteries. 12V vs mains is a red herring. The energy usage is similar. Mains gives you more choice, but gives losses in the inverter. Your Victron will give low losses compared with some makes. 12V gear will need conditioning to protect computing gear from spikes on the supply from things like pumps on the boat and this will also come at a cost in losses. Jen

You mean, "Thank you Mrs Thatcher"!

I was driving through Keighley when I saw a van signpainted “Singh & Singh Building Contractors. You’ve tried the cowboys, now try the Indians”

I just leave mine to their own devices and they work and work well, you dont have to do all the stuff that people do, Bob and MP freely admit they like to faff me I like to leave them to it

Hello.

Will BT allow you to broadcast your graph to their customers? ?

I wouldn't bet on that, there are plenty on the canals who will leave their spur marks on your deck and be happy to bill you for the experience.

A good inverter that will supply all that you are likely to require on a boat. So 4 domestic batteries. Likely to be 120Ah each, giving you a maximum usable capacity (when they’re new) of around 240Ah. If you are using power from the batteries for 12 hours a day then that gives an average current draw of 20A at 12V, which is a draw of about 200W on average. Not a huge amount. If you did this then once you've used that energy you shouldn't draw another drop of electricity until the batteries are recharged. The above demonstrates why posters have been asking you where your electric will be coming from. Every drop you use has to be replaced, plus 10-20% more, and it must be replaced as soon as possible. It’s unlikely that you will be able to work whilst cruising, so the source of your electricity needs to be the focus of your attention far more than “how many sockets should I have?”

That blurb for that head does say UNF threads on the ports so it might well just accept your current fittings... as long as they're UNF of course (pretty likely, I'd have thought). You'll be needing a blank for the unused port and copper washers all round. It also has an M16 thread so the spin on filters to fit are widely available. I think I bought from a little outfit (possibly recommended on here - I may recognise the name) and got 2 blanks in the head already, but I wouldn't swear to it. Makes sense though as most folk are going to be using it "1 in, 1 out" I'd have thought. There are many ways to skin this cat, but if you're gonna go the same way I did, I bought my WDK725s from eBay and Amazon at about a tenner Inc postage - other places were cheaper, but the postage was a killer. I'm sure you could also get the things from a local commercial motor factor. The metal drain plug makes it very easy to take a fuel sample so you can see what's coming out of your tank or to drain any water.

Oh what a difference 6 weeks makes. Boy was I wrong! .....a lot of looking after????? Rubbish. Who posted that! Honestly, with now a month of use, these Lithiums are simple. The majority of posts on this thread are all about over charging and what happens when you get to 13.98673V. In real life you never see that unless you want to do an 'every 8 week' BMV synchronisation to reset the meter. For the past 4 weeks I have meandered around 20% SoC to 90% SoC without going near the dreaded 13.9V (apart from one planned excursion up there to check the cells were still balanced...they were). You could just check them once per day to read voltage and/or Ahrs used and then either turn them off if too high or plan for a longer run tomorrow - which we have not had to do. None of this 'are we up to 100% yet! The solar is just great. The Lithiums just lap up all the power thrown at them. None of these low tail currents throtling back the panels. Very, very impressed.

Yes, but by the time I'd noticed it was past the 'allowable editing time'. You will notice that in a later post (#16) I used the correct units.

A suitable battery bank! No computers though. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Milk_float#/media/File:Dairy_Crest_milk_float_(modified).jpg

I'd say all this is spot on. Although I read the OP several times and couldn't quite work out what the question is. Computers use remarkably large amounts of energy because they tend to be used for long periods. Replacing that energy when off grid needs carefully planning for.

I suspect in law that they gave you plenty of notice, as the contract for keeping the boat in the yard - which you presumably signed - states that the rent will increase on the anniversary of the boat being put into the yard. What they didn’t do is give you a reminder, which many would consider being a decent thing to do, but as far as I can see from this thread, is not required.

Right a bit!

You wouldn't like it - it's only 62 feet long ...

Nice installation, I do like to see bearings with a grease feed, these new fangled sealed for very short life ones are not as good. But why does everyone put the greasers under the deck where they are in the way and it involves lifting boards to grease up? Mine are in the cupboard at the stern near the control panel, so its ignition off and a twist on the greaser, simple not to forget.

Doesn't half go though!

In case anyone is wondering what a plummer block is, here is mine.... It oozes rather more grease than the stern gland, which hardly uses any at the moment.... I like to put my bilge pump into a plastic tray, that catches any water.

Sounds low - I would be expecting it to be a hundred times that ...

I don't know about the rest of the site but I do know it's my default setting - I am at my best when I make very little sense

To be sure, to be sure...

Now you are being inconsistent. In your OP you said they are giving you three months' notice which strikes me as very reasonable notice for a rent rise, but now you claim you are getting no notice. Which is it? Breaching contract terms is not 'illegal'. The party breaching simply exposes themselves to the consequences of the breach which in this case, will be you suing them for your resultant losses. I.e. the difference in cost between your current mooring and another. You sue them for the difference to recover your extra costs incurred by their breach. As you appear to have a written contract at a fixed rent with no provision for rent rises, this will be an open goal for you in the county court. Point this out to the yard and they will probably back down, especially as I think you suggested all the other moorers there have the same contract, and could do the same. And yes you're right I dislike huge widebeams hogging small canals and I shouldn't have made that comment, it was irrelevant for which I apologise.

My water tank has just emptied into the bilge. The filter on the pump inlet somehow managed to undo itself. The two halves are secured by a sort of bayonet fitting without a final 'clicky bit' to stop it undoing without a push. B'stard.