Leaderboard

Looks like the canopy frame has worked out I had a go this afternoon and it works as i wanted and seems ok but for the crappy grub screws holding the fitting on. 3mm dont get a good grip bit so a bit loose and not able to fully tighten them, and 3.5 will not fit. I will have to see if i can get a new set. No big deal of a job. So here we go. Easy enough, screw down the frame mounts and stick bits of tune in and cut back to whats needed. The orange line is string from a bar on the canopy to get the correct line up for where i want the frame to be. As you can see here. The bars helped me get the rear height of the frame to get a run off towards the back. Then it was a case to get the hoop fitted by welding in mandrel bent tubes for the corners. Tacked in for now. I kept the tubes over length so then i could cut back bit by bit until i was happy with it. Showing the plumb line again where the canopy will drop. I need to sort a better fixture for the canopy to fit to over the engine lid. And would you adam n eve it, it works Folds down and hoop slides back as i wanted. Specs Hoop is 25mm x 1.2mm wall, lower frame is 22mmx 1.2 wall. This give a real nice fit for the hoop to slide down the legs. The clamps work a treat aswell.. I am thinking on fitting a handle to the middle of the hoop to control the lowering and pushing into position of the hoop. Also maybe a stainless steel riser block under the front legs so then the frame when folded will lay better. There is a few more small alterations i think to be done to get it lined up more over the transom but thats it near a dam. happy with it, but as always any advice to what i can do to make it better is welcome.

I don't think anyone is "hiding behind portholes" Daniel and I don't agree with what seems to be your premise that only "worried" people want to protect their property. I look out of my 15" portholes and enjoy world every day so I'm not sure what you're talking about here. Also, nothing that I know of can actually keep any boat completely safe from damage or total loss. That's not really the point. No door lock is entirely impregnable for example, but most of us still lock our doors. It's all a question of degrees of security, not entirely protecting a boat as you seem to be suggesting. By your logic, because you can't guarantee keeping a boat 100% protected you'd do nothing at all to protect it! I remember several years ago on a security thread you said that someone could still kick my portholes in a set fire to my boat. At the time I thought that was a particularly stupid comment, but put it down to your youth and inexperience. Your thinking may not have developed that much, but at least you're not talking about setting fire to boats anymore! On the issue of aesthetics I do happen to think that portholes look better on boats than bus windows, but that's just a personal preference.

Finally updated my doodle showing the inside of my boat. Don't worry, it's new biscuits since last time.

Dont take the duck or they will eat it!!

So long as the unit life is just long enough for people to buy replacements rather than a different brand then they have got it about right for max profit.

That's a shame. We love taking Sydney to pubs. Luckily for us he he likes going into them as well.

Bolinder merged with Munktell in 1932 and made tractors. The Bolinder Munktell company was aquired by Volvo in 1950 and continued to make tractors under the Bolinder Munktell name until the early 1970's when the name changed to Volvo. They still make tractors today. edited:- for spelling error

2" is too wide, ideally the water passages should be a skinny as possible so water can not "get away" from the cols hull side and, as pointed out earlier, create turbulent flow. The wider the tank the more antifreeze it needs and the larger the space for coolant expansion has to be provided.

That must mean it's all right for use by tin-slugs on muddy ditches, but not suitable for real boats on 'real' water.