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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/11/17 in all areas

  1. Maybe he's moved over the Chunderboat and the good people there are helping him to launch a case against CaRT in the high court .............Dave
    4 points
  2. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  3. If you had 5 then you would be able to tell which one was good and which four weren't
    2 points
  4. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  6. In the interests of research, I have ordered the desulfator from batteryXtra - a hefty £60. I will fit it, use for a period of time and report my results. I know that my new batteries capacity goes from 100% at 8pm in the evening, to 40% when I get up (yes I know about the 60% rule and I'm really at the point now where the fridge will need switching off at night). That's about 60a/h. Anyway - I have a good yard stick to see if things improve. If they don't, the item will be returned within its 60 day free return period. I'm doing it for the forum Then you can all say "told you so"!
    2 points
  7. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
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  9. Is best to check the pressure, a car type pressure gauge on the accumulator/expamsion vessel should tell you once the system is up to pressure and the pump turned itself off. The instant gas heater may have a maximum pressure for the heat exchanger.
    2 points
  10. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  11. Sorted!! My perception of the Jabsco Par Max 2.9 pump was that the pressure switch is not adjustable, and Jabsco actually state that trying to alter the pressure would invalidate their warranty. Googling, I found a "High Pressure" Par Max 2.9, and a facility to buy the related pressure switch separately for about £26... however, for some reason, I got to the checkout clicked to buy, and the page hung, so I gave up. The High pressure pump cuts out at 40psi and cuts in at 20psi. A bit more googling and I find that there is a screw on the pressure switch that adjusts the pressure. It is revealed by removing the blue pressure switch cover. Turning it clockwise increases the pressure at which the pump cuts in and out so, with the kitchen tap turned to hot, I turned the screw in quarter turn increments to the point where the flow of water increased to a reasonable level, the pump runs almost continuously, the Rinnai gas flame is lit continuously whilst the water is running, and the water is hot. bathroom hot water is fine, and the shower continues to work OK, so all is well I dont know what I have increased the cut in and cut out pressures - I just increased it until it did the job. A benefit of the increased pressure is that the toilet has a more powerful flush - which is helpful Thanks for all the info, advice, and discussion - without it I dont think I would have persisted to the outcome!!
    2 points
  12. I have a house, but have retired on the waterways with a boat as well. I don't continuously cruise, I occasionally put boat in a marina for a week or two whilst I do something else, or I may stay on board in a marina. I pay boat marina fees ,I pay house fees, I have done 1500 hrs this year, everyone has a different story. I am getting skint with paying everything. But I do try to see other people's views, so I am a cc some times and a marina user. Ssoo lets be sensible and not selfish, as some other comments on here, anyone south of Oxford pays double, easy ,hope that helps.
    1 point
  13. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  14. There's a spreadsheet at The Battery FAQ: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/ http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/SoC.xls Not a huge difference in resting voltage between 25C and 5C; comes out to 43mV or 0.043V. Without compensating it'll just read the SoC a little lower when the batts are cold, say up to 5% lower.
    1 point
  15. But even for our huge boat its less than £3 per night, free water, free rubbish disposal, and free sewage unless you have a pump out. Try staying on a campsite in a motorhome and it will be close to ten times that, and I bet the scenery wont be nearly as good, and the local pub will probably be naff. On the Weaver for a bit and so get our own personal lock keepers (free), though do have to give a days notice. What I would really like is a 300% increase in the licence and CaRT provide the beer free of charge, but expect it would be a bit bland.. ..........Dave
    1 point
  16. Johny, we are now at post 230 on this thread and you are still trying to work out what is wrong. Unless something else has happend since the first page, go back and look at the first 4 or 5 responses. Wotever said As others have pointed out, you are chronically under-charging and will kill your new batts in very little time. You cannot charge for a couple of hours to get to 80% and hope everything is ok. You are killing your batteries in a very short time. Look at charging properly. 2 hours a day in winter is not enough.
    1 point
  17. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  18. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  19. Particularly when the boat becomes infested with ants Did you mean about an Adverc?
    1 point
  20. Or, if a heavy duty version is preferred, try a Pangolin.
    1 point
  21. My understanding is that the electrical potential developed between the lead and lead oxide used to make the plates is a constant effectively unaffected by temperature, as it determined by the molecular structure of the two metals and the strength of the electrolyte. However as batteries are chemical devices, the chemical reactions caused by current flow will be affected by temperature. At high temperatures batteries will more readily give or accept current than at low temperatures and this is why the charge voltage needs to be increased at low temperatures, to drive the same level of current as would be accepted at normal temperatures. This is seen by the batteries reluctance to provide large currents at low temperatures, particularly evident with the number of cars struggling to start on a frosty morning. As is said before, plates with more or less antimony and calcium in their construction may have very slightly different cell voltages to cells using pure lead plate construction, and will require slightly different charging voltages at normal temperatures.
    1 point
  22. And I thought I was being naughty...!
    1 point
  23. Only if two read the same.
    1 point
  24. Three would be better. That way, if one is inaccurate you can tell which one it is.
    1 point
  25. On 'two cals' Innisfree I did just that but ran it through a diverter valve so I could pre-heat engine only, heat cals only, heat rads only, heat call and rads, or, heat all that lot with engine instead! I like complicated.
    1 point
  26. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  27. At my time of life what else is there?
    1 point
  28. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  29. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  30. Two cauliflowers is just showing off - a bit like Arthur 'two sheds' Jackson.
    1 point
  31. I have a back boiler stove and have 3 rads on gravity circulation. My rads are fitted between the top flow and bottom return. My flow pipe rises 8 inches from stove vertically and then rises all the way back to the rear bedroom in 28 and 22mm copper. The rise would be around 15 inches in a 50 ft trad boat. The return runs downhill and back to the stoves return connection. My rad valves are full bore lever valves. The cold feed and vent are piped into the highest point at far end and feed lower pipe. I have also fitted a 15mm circuit to be pumped to heat a calorifier. I have also connected in at the end a webasto with separate feed and vent pipes. The webasto heats all 4 rads. The backboiler isn't that powerfull at 8,000btu and gets the bathroom and bedroom rads reasonably warm enough to make it comfortable. I too would advocate at least one gravity rad! James
    1 point
  32. I have 4 more or less dead Trojan T105s which I have been considering replacing for several months. However, i have just fitted 500w of solar so, (based on advice here, particularly smileypete ), am planning to eke out the Trojans until Spring when a new set will get a good start with what I hope will be a good useage and charging regime. Procrastinating will also give time for other ideas and solutions to rise to the forefront of my brain
    1 point
  33. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  34. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  35. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  36. Relax, Smiley! Just revel in the knowledge that there is no better solution than the one you devised!!
    1 point
  37. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  38. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  39. I strongly suspect that it was MIC. If he had only intermittent shore power use as described (not even plugged in for much of the time and therefore no earth connection) then all the talk of a mysterious ‘field’ around the boat sounds to me like so much sci-fi nonsense. MIC is a much more likely scenario. Here’s that link: http://www.keelblack.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/MICROBIOLOGICAL-CORROSION.pdf
    1 point
  40. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  41. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  42. Thanks for bringing us up to date. Glad you got it sorted. With the more powerful flush it sounds like you have invented a toilet and bidet combined Bizzard will be most impressed.
    1 point
  43. WOT! No Head of Better? < With apologies to W1A > "What we need to do is identify what we do well and do less of it better"
    1 point
  44. it would be more meaningful if they started doing the job not thinking up fancy job titles .
    1 point
  45. If it's being powered from the 12V domestic batteries there's no need to go for an individual power source when you already have a comparative abundance of additional power sources - including shore supply, domestic alternator and solar if you so choose. A quick look reveals that pukka 12V boat bathroom fan with light as sold by Force 4 chandlers for 49 quid (I'm sure cheaper ones with or without the light are available) uses just 2.4 watts for the fan. Add a 1 watt led lamp and you're up to 3.4 watts. That's about 1/3 of an Amp being drawn so even if you bathed with the Flying Scotsman instead of a rubber duck and it took 3 hours for the all the steam to clear, it would only tax your batteries by 1 Amp hour. You already know your battery electrons are the right type too - unless every time you press your horn everything goes quiet!
    1 point
  46. Peoples director! What a load of crap.
    1 point
  47. boisdevie you do that. email crt and see what they have to say thats what i would do ...if they say yes its ok to stay there till the jobs done and you dont mind staying there 5/6 weeks.nothing more to say about it ...if they say no you can not ...then thats it you can not simple ,and please dont worry what other boaters think or say ...like you said you are new to this boating thing ...good luck any way
    1 point
  48. I agree with all of that. Its seems that across the whole range of modern domestic water pumps the cut in pressure is close to half the cut out pressure and I suspect that difference is too large for the best operation of things like instant gas water heaters.
    1 point
  49. Nick, as someone with absolutely no axe to grind in this argument, can I gently point out that you're being a bit of an arse? If you want to continue this pointless argument, please take it to PMs/email so the rest of us don't have to witness it. MP.
    1 point
  50. No. It's just two boats moored a bit inconsiderately having probably made a conscious decision to move off the main lane to the lesser used route having noted that very few boats come down the main line and turn right to go up Spon Lane locks. It's only become an issue because the one boat that has done that is crewed by someone who likes to take verbal online shots at fellow boaters by way of sport and is fueled by folk who don't approve of the way of life of the boaters concerned. JP
    1 point
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