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How is it off-topic to mention the only UK political party which is opposed to this nonsense? If you "couldn't be arsed" to compose a sensible reply, then why compose one at all? It just comes back to what I said last week, for some reason you seem to follow me around this forum like a little puppy dog, even when you have absolutely nothing to contribute to the thread.

So not actually "a COSHH officer" then? Well, I'm not what you would call "politically active", I think I've only ever voted twice in my life. I supported the idea of eu membership in its original format, an organisation designed to facilitate trade between European countries. Of course, it has moved on massively from that now to become an unnecessary and hugely expensive and meddlesome layer of bureaucracy, but if that is what you personally want, then good luck and may the Lord's blessing go with you.

Anyone planning (and maybe worrying about) installing a washing machine may find the following notes of use. This was the first time I switched the machine on. Boat electrics 70 amp 12v DC alternator. Engine running throughout wash programme 4 x 110 Ah batteries 2000 watt 12v to 240v AC pure sine wave inverter (Sunshine Solar) Washing Machine Candy Aquamatic 100f (compact) max 1000 spin, 1300 watt max Cold feed only, but water fed in via mixer valve at 30 degrees C. (I might throttle this back to 25 degrees, as the washing did seem a bit warm when I got it out) Notes My water (flow meter) reading before the start was 7550 litres 10:45 start, Filling and slow drum movement between 10 and 80 watts 10:56 Heating Cycle. (THIUS IS THE BIT THAT HURTS) 1162 watts with the element only on, and 1271 watts with element and drum movement 11:03 Heating went off after 7 minutes. Note that the 7 minutes to heat the water is consistent with theory, as if the element is 1100 watts, the raising 9.5 litres of water by 10 degrees C, should take just 6 minutes) Drum movement continues at 10-100 watts until .. 12:02 The draining and rinsing cycle begins. There are 3 cold water rinses with the machine taking in the fabric conditioner on the last rinse at 12:26, The power rarely exceeds 100 watts. 12:33 The final drain 12:37 The spinning cycle starts. Maximum power 200 – 300 watts Programme ends at 12:46 (2 hours) Water reading at end was 7592 litres. So water used was 42 litres. 9.5 litres for the wash and 11.5 litres for each of the 3 rinses. This is the hottest and longest programme I am likely to use. I measured the (settled) battery voltage before I started, and did intend to do the same a day later, but clearly the net result of this power usage is not going to be adverse, so in the end, I didn’t bother. So, all in all, not as scary as I originally feared.

Off topic - I've just noticed your name, my maiden name is Toyne and my middle name is Jayne!

NMEA If you ever come to MK area, I would indeed be willing to pay for you to come and set up my Webasto heater Including correcting any instalation issues. I do believe that has been my own short comings on Webasto coking up and other heater problems. Just ordered a STP carb cleaner for next time I have to decoke. Col

I've heard P&S recommended on several occasions in the past. Another alternative might be Stansted Abbots Marina on the Lea.

Yawn...as it has been banned by most of the developed world it would seem inevitable you would have to go to somewhere like Turkey to get some. Trich is extremely nasty stuff and has been slowly removed from everything since the 70s, predating the EU's interest by some decades. Dich did replace it in many uses (I recall similar hysterics when I was the COSHH officer in the mid 80s auditing all the nasties in the lab though nobody was blaming the EU back then) but it is still pretty dodgy and best kept in safer conditions than your average DIY shed. If we didn't have EU directives then the British Safety Standards would be applying similar if not stricter controls (the EU, after all uses guidelines pioneered by the UK to reach its decisions on such matters). If you don't like H&S regulations then move to Bhopal because they are here in the UK to stay, Europe or not.

Nicely put, thank you Tony. Now my tongue can stop bleeding. I find it understandable for peeps to chose to write "Amps" instead of "Amp hours" when they don't know or understand the difference, but for Phil to chose to deliberately use the wrong term when he understands the difference seems at best perverse. At worst, it seems designed to mislead people who are new to the subject and trying to grasp the principles. Phil, please don't do it. As Tony says, it makes everything else you say appear unreliable too. MtB

Have you ha the battery terminals off, cleaned then to bright metal, smothered in Vaseline and refitted them. At the same time checked for how well the actual cables are fitted into the terminals? It could also be a faulty domestic master switch. Either test by putting both cables on one stud for a short while or if its a plastic key job screw up a bit of tinfoil into a small all and put down the key hole. The solar may or may not contribute to the charge when the engine is running depending upon the two charging voltages but it is probably best to assume not. A short is not so likely as you have not phoned the fire brigade. However it may be something else causing a permanent current flow. How likely it is depends upon the symptoms over a period of time. I suspect the change before setting off might imply ongoing problems. I'm with MtB. If one is ignorant of the difference between amps and amp hours then personally I tend to read what is probably intended but if a person knows the difference then to transpose the two terms and use the wrong one is just plain incorrect. It confuses the issue and brings everything being said into question. It also serves to reinforce the incorrect use in the less sure and gives the wrong message to those who do not know. The problem might be with using "mains supplies via wall wart" LED lamps on batteries. We recently had a thread about this and some held that the voltage tolerance of such lights is so narrow they do go off well before a battery is anywhere near "flat". Have you tried a bulb type light, how did the water pump react?

Have you physically seen the boat, or just adverts of it, phone conversations, etc?

As you say, the thrust comes from displacing a mass of water, larger volume at a higher rate make more thrust, a propeller is just a tool to make that happen and can only make it more or less efficient, and they do. so no prop wash no thrust. A more efficient prop have less prop wash in relation to forward speed, it is the mass thrown back that make the thrust, so to make it efficient it should take as a big area and accelerating it as little as possible, but there also is a optimal diameter for the power and speed and rpm, and a practical diameter limited by strength, space and hull drumming/noise. with a fixed diameter, more "prop wash" make more thrust, more effect, but less efficiency (power in/power out) The pitch should be so that every blade radius work at its best L/D (lift / drag) but cavitating and acceleration/stopping demands decrease in the alpha (angle) and increase in blade area, (lower lift coefficient demand a larger area for same effect) so it takes a twist in the blade to make the whole propeller work at its optimum The Axiom label there prop with diameter and blade angle, so there (example) 18X20 is 18" diameter and blade have 20 degree angle, so not pitch in inch, boat props use the angle at 70% radii for nominal pitch, so that 18X20 is 14.4" In the airplane world, I often see the static thrust (bollard thrust) is talked about and tested, measured, we can design a propeller for high static thrust, bigger diameter, blade area, less pitch, but at cruise it make a poor propeller, airplanes that have (often) a high speed range and top speed, compered to boats, the speed very much change the optimal diameter on airplanes, faster plane make the diameter smaller. an airplane tied to a birch don't fly very well, and the efficiency is zero, so even on boats, if we prop the boat for high bollard thrust the forward speed and efficiency will suffer. but ok for a tug boat.

May I commend to you: "The Big Bang Theory; Sheldon Presents 'Fun With Flags' " - four episodes of vexicology. My apologies to the OP (Jayne, Honey) who also sought only to educate and entertain us. Alan

No, not anymore, it was manned by a lock keeper called Ray but you just go through as normal. It's called "The Summit" and it's the point where the canal goes downhill from the summit lock. The water is fed from here both ways and the lock keeper used to monitor passages but they ceased this recently.

Open a (free) account with 'photobucket'. Once done , open Photobucket and you will see a 'button' called upload Click button - search your computer for the picture you want, click on it and it up loads to photobucket. Keep photobucket open, in a seperate tab, open Canalworld, open/start the thread you want to put the picture in, Go to the photobucket tab, select the picture you want to post, below the 'thumbnail of the picture' will be 5 options :- Email Direct HTML IMG IMGthumb Click on IMG, right click mouse and select 'copy' Go back to the Canalworld tab, type your text, when you want the picture inserting, right click mouse and click 'paste' Picture will now be inserted in your post. (it may show up as a line of text - IMG http// .............. but when you click 'post' it will turn into a picture)

I thought Ebola was an online hat store