Tony Redshaw is unable to do it. 

Does anyone recommend an engineer who could either travel to the Shroppie or I could move the boat to them?

Cheers.

Oh, I know they all require a daily routine, but as a newbie to vintage engines, there may be some that are harder to work with than others? Do some or all require a man's strength to get started, nuts, bolts, two-handed jobs, etc?

Tengo algunas piezas originales para un motor diésel Lister SL1 monocilíndrico refrigerado por aire que quiero vender. Decidí no reconstruirlo y prefiero ofrecérselas a alguien que las necesite para un proyecto de restauración.

Las piezas que tengo disponibles son:

El bloque del motor desnudo (cárter)

Las cubiertas laterales / cubierta del volante

El volante/polea

Tienen algo de óxido superficial por haber estado a la intemperie, pero el hierro fundido está en buen estado, sin grietas visibles ni soldaduras previas. Actualmente me encuentro en México.

Estoy abierto a ofertas. ¿Alguien podría decirme cuál sería un precio justo para estas piezas? Además de eBay, ¿cuál es el mejor lugar para vender estas piezas pesadas al comprador adecuado?

Por favor, revisa las imágenes adjuntas. Si te interesa o necesitas más detalles, no dudes en enviarme un mensaje directo.

¡Gracias de antemano!

Image to PDF 20260410 10.33.41.pdf

It's based near Oswestry on the Montgomery canal at present.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/225590049420

Please call Chris 07973159941

For all the standard oil gaskets, e.g. fittings to the crank case, I have used Flexoid of the appropriate thickness, and for water fittings I have used cork. The fuel fittings will be in hard red fibre. That leaves the gaskets which will see temperature - head, inlet (not that hot but some as there is a pre-heat vaporiser) and the exhaust fittings and vaporiser. Most of these have a combination of heat, pressure and water, to varying degrees.

The original gaskets appear to be copper/asbestos, ie a sheet of asbestos wrapped in copper which is somehow bonded around it. This still seems to be an option for copper/non-asbestos, but having them all made commercially is not viable and they can't get the right size rings for the through holes anyway. I could probably buy some copper foil and non-asbestos gasket material and make this type. I can do the cutting and folding easily enough, and spinning the rings for the through holes is well within my experience - way easier than porthole liners! However, I don't know how the copper is bonded to itself and, being asbestos inside, I am not inclined to cut one up to find out. Does anyone know how these were made (bearing mind it is a technology which goes back over a century it must be possible!)

The other options are to use one or the other of the above.

Copper is easily sourced, if not cheap. It is easy enough to machine out what I need and then to anneal it, and of course it is re-usable many times. However, apart from the cost, what are the down sides of solid copper gaskets?

Non-asbestos gasket materials are available in a bewildering array of compositions and brands. Any thoughts on which to use? I am aware that one approach has been to use non-asbestos gaskets and slather them with copper slip, but I am not sure what advantage that actually created, other than looking more like the originals.

Any other thoughts on the pros and cons of solid copper vs. non-asbestos or on how to bond the copper together in a copper/non-asbestos gasket would be most welcome!

Alec

£2,950 or offers.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/196858091250

Does anyone know of a mobile mechanic in the Hinckley/Nuneaton area? I have a strong suspicion it’s electrical but maybe not…. The batteries are fine and the flywheel

is turning. But the engine isn’t catching.

Cheers, Mark

I'm tracking down an oil leak in my PRM160 gearbox, and the most likely suspect is a copper tube in the hydraulic circuit that appears to have chafed against a jubilee clip on the cooling system; I've been working on it in the evenings, so I haven't yet had a chance to run the engine and confirm.

Is replacing the tube as simple as getting some tubing and olives of the appropriate diameter (forgot to measure it, but suspect 3/8" OD) and treating it as domestic plumbing? If so, should I also buy/use a pipe cutter of the correct size? PTFE tape?

Even if the leak turns out to be elsewhere, I'll probably replace the tube anyway - see photo! As an aside - how did we manage before mobile phone cameras?

First time posting. I've been following for sometime and learning as much as I can but still consider myself a novice - intermediate.

Yesterday while I was completing a coolant flush I noticed very tiny amount of bubbling right at the headgasket line on the aft end of the engine nearest the flywheel. I googled and found this user's post: here

The bubbling is exactly that, though on the back end of the engine. Similar to that user, I also notice no issues starting, no water in oil, or oil in coolant. I was able to observe the water in the headertank while engine was running and didn't notice any bubbles either.

I followed the suggestion to retorque the head bolts to spec, and noticed next time I fired the engine there was no bubbling, after some time before the thermostat opened, I noticed much reduced bubbling, so small I was second guessing my eyes. After the engine was a temp no further bubbles. I gave her some throttle, no bubbles either.

I'm planning on pulling the injectors and swapping in a rebuilt injection pump due to a small fuel leak from the pump weep hole. Should I dive in and replace the headgasket now? Is this typical behavor for a head that just needed tightening? Am I nuts to consider a gasket replacement?

Thanks all for any advice!

Currently £125

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226439253245

Electric start. Currently £350

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256667206316

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/267053937502

None of that seems ideal. 
 

I have been trying to find a thermostat that I can plumb in to the 22mm pipe or a BSP fitting. Does anyone know of anything suitable? 
 

On the attached picture A is the outlet from the engine. B goes towards the calorifier and C goes straight back into the engine. 
 

Many thanks. 

The options appear to be to fit a second starter battery or to fit a 12V starter motor. My preference is for the latter as I would rather avoid the complexity on the electrical side, and I have a very restricted space for starter batteries and would rather not try to find a model which fits two in.

I do have a 12V CAV BS5 starter motor which is untested but either should work or could be reconditioned.

The question is therefore over the wiring. In theory, this starter motor can draw 930A, and I have a 900CCA battery. However, looking at the cable dimensions required this seems extreme. In reality I don't think the engine is capable of taking anything like that current to turn it (that equates to 15hp, which is nearly as much as the engine!) so I need some practical experience from people with similar sized engines about starter cable cross-section. The same starter motor is used on the Lister JP2, the Kelvin J and K and various Gardners to my knowledge, so it would be useful to know what size cable others have fitted.

Thanks

Alec

New here so please be patient with me. 

Looking to identify an engine fitted in a friends narrow boat. I've never seen this type of engine before and Internet searches with the available info are yielding very little. 

It is a 2 cylinder diesel engine with "coventry diesel" written on top. There is no other data or data plate to get any info from. I googled it and all I get is info coventry climax and coventry Victor with I don't think is what I'm looking at in the boat. Any help is much appreciated. I had other pictures but the files are too big to upload. 

Its a Ruston  Hornsby 3VRH. It is in a 60ft narrow boat.

Can anyone advise where I should be looking please?

Regards

Ivan

I am looking at installing a Balmar 140amp alternator to charge my lithium house bank.  I have a Lister JP3 and unfortunately the slow revs and pulley size is not sufficient to spin the alternator fast enough.  Ideally, I need the alternator rpm to 5-6000 but my calculations suggest that I will only achieve around 2500rpm (engine revs of 3-500rpm).  This gives a amp output of 30-50 at best. 

I am toying with the idea of engineering a ‘geared pulley’ between the alt and engine. e.g.  15-16in engine pulley to 2 in pulley currently gives 2500rpm. If I place a intermediate 2in pulley which is attached to a 4in pulley to the alternator, this should theoretically double the alt speed to 5000rpm. The math is probably a bit rough but is used as an example.   Has anyone overcome the problem of slow revs?  I would love to hear how you solved it.

Chers

I've tried Little Chimney Company and Michael Pinnock - they don't/no longer do exhaust stacks. Any other recommendations greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Be grateful for any info.