MtB

I fear that coil might be sludged up because there is no circulation, rather than that circulation stopped due to sludge in the coil. Circulation would have stopped the deposition of the sludge. I think Tony is probably right and those two hose connections both go into the same chamber in the engine, so there is no difference in pressure between them to create circulation.

That's partly why we have battery isolator switches, Shirley! To prevent this sort of muck up.

I had a Webasto warm air heater that worked fine for 20 years without needing to touch it or service it in any way.

Steady on old bean. A bit drastic, don'tcher think?

And further, wouldn't one expect the BMS to monitor the charge current and either limit it or turn charging off if the charge rate exceeds a safe current? Also, a charge rate of 0.5C seems a bit odd when battery posts must be designed to carry enough current discharge at at least 1C without overheating.

Post No.4 specifically. A first class example of someone not reading the thread before jumping in with both feet!

Well the whole implied but unspoken message in the advert is that eating Anchor butter can get you smashed in a similar way to consuming excess alcohol or cannabis, don't you think? The lads on bikes observing, for example, that she's not responding to calls for help because "She's absolutely buttered". A little irresponsible, some might claim...

You have misunderstood. They don't generally catch fire if abused as you describe. There is little or nothing to burn other than perhaps some dust inside it, or the laquer on the windings. Automotive alternators are not designed to run at full output indefinitely. They don't catch fire if you run them at full chat for hours on end, they simply get so hot that diodes fail or soldered joints melt and they just stop charging.Permanently. You have clearly not run yours long enough to reach this point. Yet! Just monitor the temp of your alternator and stop charging if you think it is it getting too hot. Use your 'engineering judgement'. If you introduce a small resistance into the cable charging the LFP, you can limit the alternator output to a current low enough to prevent the alternator ever getting so hot it damages itself. This technique is (weirdly) dismissed as a bodge here, even though it works brilliantly. This bit I really don't understand. If you are disconnecting your start battery from the alternator shortly after starting, its no great surprise it isn't getting charged. Why not leave it connected to the alternator all the time, just like everyone else does?

I'm not sure a photo of a row of wires in holes is going to be a great deal of help unless we know what is on the other end of each wire. But yes, either the OP has wired it up wrong or he has been had by that Ebay seller.

Yer average AI has looked at all of the internet already!

That's partly what I found irritating about the video. Most of the pics being shown were entirely unconnected with the audio narrative over them.

Is it a sealed, pressurised system? I.e. do you have a 'radiator cap' on the header tank? Or is the water level open to the air?

Well the evidence suggests, given it has never worked for you (and probably not the previous owner or they would have fixed it) that the above is not the case I would suggest, unhelpfully! Whatever header tank you have needs to be higher than the top of the coil for starters. Is it?