agag

Thanks Tony I will take your advice and post it on sailing forums as now that I think of it it where I have found all the best information regarding this enjine.

Hello, I have a volvo penta md17 which is very smokey (white-ish with a blue tint) and does not start well from cold. When is warmed up starts well but is still smokey. On top of two of the three cylinders around the injector there is some transparent liquid that i think is diesel. It smells like diesel, it is a bit oily but not red as I would expect. I am pretty confident the leak is neither from the high pressure pipe to the injector or the fuel return. Today I took out the injector from cylinder one, (which has the worst leak.) and observed that it fits really loose inside its copper sleeve. The injector spray pattern seems fine. For reference I checked the 3rd cylinder that does not leak. The injector feels really tight there. Volvo Penta of that vintage have a copper sleeve that I believed is directly cooled by the coolant passing around the cylinder block. I think they don't have a copper washer either. The engine before I got it had overheating issues on those two cylinders which I resolved but I have the feeling that this something that the overheating has caused. My theory is that the sleeve/cylinder has been warped by previous overheating but I dont have much experience. How do I resolve this? Would replacing the sleeve be an option? I know this requires specialist tools. My other option is replacing the cylinder as I have spares from old engine. Any ideas as always are really appreciated Regards Antonios.

Yes I ll make sure I turn the safe search on first just in case In any case I know what to look for.

Thanks for the replies. I think the keyword I was looking to research is 'running nipple' , can look for the right bits on the internet now. Cheers!

Hello, There are two 1 1/2 inch holes in the bulkhead for the the calorifier pipes, the pipes themselves are 15mm plastic. Currently they are sealed with expanding foam which would need to be reapplied but I am not sure is waterproof either... As the holes are very low to the bottom of the bilge I would like to do something about it making sure that water can not easily flood from one part to the other. So my question is what would be a good and perhaps easily sourced solution for sealing the holes? Thank you

I replaced the stove by myself at the same place as the previous stove. Removed the old one, grinded the flue, and slotted in the taller new stove. Unfortunately new stove (stovax brunel 1a )with backboiler does not perform well yet. Seems that the flue is not long enough? The fire is hard to get going even with all the air controls open. The flue is smaller around 30cm now.

Just an update for this project. I had installed the radiators and pipes and I was waiting for the xmas break to swap the stove. The radiators seem to be warming up nicely and I am very pleased with this part of the project. Thanks everyone for the great advice! Unfortunately the new stove is not performing very well yet. It seems that it doesnt get enough oxygen in to burn well. I suspect that the flue is not long enough. She is a bit taller, so I removed approximately 30cm of flue length to fit it. Also the recommended minimum flue length acccording to the manufacturer is 4m, don't think I will ever be able to get this.

This an is even better idea!

THis seems like an easy way to do it. Will dry it well and use some silicon sealant. Cheers

Hi again, How do i secure the bilge pump and the float sensor that came with it on the bottom of the boat? Found them both floating in 2 inches of water the other day! And while we are at the subject of bilge pumps, how do I clean up the last bit of water that the bilge pump cannot suck out? Do I just get used to have 15mm of water at the bottom of my engine compartment? Thanks again ag

maybe i should get some help from some one who knows what they are doing. Any recommendations for some stove fitter in (west) london area?

This will be a nightmare with the backboiler pipes...Stove have to stay facing the same way for this reason. If I understand what you say. cheers

I'd rather keep clear from making new holes in the roof at the moment . Would prefer to leave the stove and chimney where they are if possible. If not will move the stove a bit to the side to have less of an angle or even no angle at all... With a vertical flue it should be fairly straight forward to install but I will have loads of fire proofing work around the stove to do. Still think is a bit of a mission and maybe I will end up getting someone else to do it for me. And I will need a grinder and a tile cutter.

there was a link to picture showing all this in my original post. Unfortunatelly I am not allowed to post images here directly. here is the link again. stove