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new flue..who do I go to?


Ca Jon

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I also almost sit on the fence, I am loathe to question anyone who has done scientific experiments, but then I know that there is good science and bad science, and even science sponsored by the marketing men and politicians.

My engineering intuition (which is sometimes wrong but mostly right) says a single skin flue is the way to go (and is what I have done).

I accept that if a stove has a draw problem then a twin walled flue will be a big help, but most boat stoves actually manage to draw ok so a twin walled flue will just put useful heat up the chimney rather than into the boat.

If a twin walled flue is going to put more heat into the boat, despite a colder flue, then the stove temperature must be increased significantly and mine is hot enough as it is,

............Dave

 

 

This is pretty much my conclusion. I don't have a draw problem with my single flue pipe and certainly much of the heat comes from the flue. An insulated flue might make the stove more efficient in that it would use less fuel for the same effective heat generation, but if half that extra heat generated goes up the chimney I can't see how that is an advantage in a boat. It may well make a difference where a flue pipe goes up inside a house chimney, but not where 90% of the flue pipe is in the room.

 

As dmr says, if you exclude the heat given off from the flue, then the stove has to burn hotter to put the same total amount of heat into the room - not necessarily ideal.

 

And my Brunel 1A - similar to a Squirrel - will run for up to 24 hours on Excel if it really needs to - provided it is not too windy which increases draw. So the argument about the stove burning for longer doesn't really stand up.

 

ETA: it is also very noticeable how much temperature drop there is over the length of the flue pipe between the stove and the ceiling. This shows that a lot of heat that enters the flue from the stove must be lost (gained!) to the room.

Edited by dor
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