21 replies to this topic

[nwj2000]

Is that the right term? Stern Gland? It's the bit where the prop shaft goes out of the hull above the bilge.

I twist the greaser to pack the gland at regular intervals, but despite this there is a constant drip. I get one drip about every 1-1.5 seconds. Not normally a problem as I'm on the boat most days and can run the bilge pump, but just went away for a long weekend and the whole engine bay flooded 8 inches deep. I need to get an automatic bilge pump with a float switch, but my question is does it sound like this is leaking too much? and if so what can I do about it?

Thanks,

Nick

[ditchcrawler]

Is that the right term? Stern Gland? It's the bit where the prop shaft goes out of the hull above the bilge.

I twist the greaser to pack the gland at regular intervals, but despite this there is a constant drip. I get one drip about every 1-1.5 seconds. Not normally a problem as I'm on the boat most days and can run the bilge pump, but just went away for a long weekend and the whole engine bay flooded 8 inches deep. I need to get an automatic bilge pump with a float switch, but my question is does it sound like this is leaking too much? and if so what can I do about it?

Thanks,

Nick

Have you tried turning the greaser down after you have stopped for the day? If so does it drip overnight.
It may require repacking or just the gland tightening a bit.

[Laurie.Booth]

I think all you have to do is tighten the gland nuts.

[Chris Pink]

Is that the right term? Stern Gland? It's the bit where the prop shaft goes out of the hull above the bilge.

I twist the greaser to pack the gland at regular intervals, but despite this there is a constant drip. I get one drip about every 1-1.5 seconds. Not normally a problem as I'm on the boat most days and can run the bilge pump, but just went away for a long weekend and the whole engine bay flooded 8 inches deep. I need to get an automatic bilge pump with a float switch, but my question is does it sound like this is leaking too much? and if so what can I do about it?

Thanks,

Nick

There are two flanges joined by two studs and nuts, are the two flanges apart or together?

[jelunga]

Yes check the adjustment is correct. One drip per minute when the prop is turning is the norm. And always turn the greaser when you stop for the day. This means you will have a warm gland, the grease will flow in better and stiffen up when it cools a little.
I have owned Lily Maud since Dec 2009. I have never had to adjust the stern gland in all that time. I just grease my hot gland at the end of the days use until the knob gets too stiff and that is enough. About 500 engine hours of which probably half is propulsion

[ianali]

Yes check the adjustment is correct. One drip per minute when the prop is turning is the norm. And always turn the greaser when you stop for the day. This means you will have a warm gland, the grease will flow in better and stiffen up when it cools a little.
I have owned Lily Maud since Dec 2009. I have never had to adjust the stern gland in all that time. I just grease my hot gland at the end of the days use until the knob gets too stiff and that is enough. About 500 engine hours of which probably half is propulsion

Edited by ianali, 12 April 2012 - 01:33 PM.

[nwj2000]

I think all you have to do is tighten the gland nuts.

Is that as simple as it sounds? Does it require adjustment or just tightening?

Have you tried turning the greaser down after you have stopped for the day? If so does it drip overnight.
It may require repacking or just the gland tightening a bit.

Yes I do this but it still drips.

[bottle]

If you still have adjustment available then turn take up the slack in the greaser and then one full turn (maximum), adjust the two bolts/nuts equally, you should still be able to turn the prop' shaft by hand after adjustment.

[Keeping Up]

Tighten each nut until the prop shaft becomes just too stiff to turn by hand, then back them off until you can just turn it again. I have to tighten mine about one turn every month.

[Tony Brooks]

Yes check the adjustment is correct. One drip per minute when the prop is turning is the norm. And always turn the greaser when you stop for the day. This means you will have a warm gland, the grease will flow in better and stiffen up when it cools a little.
I have owned Lily Maud since Dec 2009. I have never had to adjust the stern gland in all that time. I just grease my hot gland at the end of the days use until the knob gets too stiff and that is enough. About 500 engine hours of which probably half is propulsion

I agree but think that you could have phrased it to be less ambiguous

Sorry

[Laurie.Booth]

Tighten the self locking nuts.

Edited by Laurie.Booth, 12 April 2012 - 02:37 PM.

[Bobbybass]

Tighten the self locking nuts.

Hi Laurie...etc...
Not all adjusters look like that..mine doesn't..
My prop shaft passes trough a large ring shaped nut...which then passes through another ring shaped nut..both of whcih have 'spigot' holes in them..
The second 'nut' is a cone nut that forces the seal down against the prop shaft. To adjust...you have to loosen the front...engine 'end' lock nut...then turn the second nut with the special spanner...so that it compresses the sealing string against the prop shaft..

I rotate the prop by hand until I feel it start to grip..and then turn back slightly...about quarter turn I was told... but everyone has their own opinion. You then tighten the lock ring down onto the adjusting ring..
I find that the quarter turn back...doesn't make it run hot..

Make sense..?

Edited by Bobbybass, 12 April 2012 - 02:51 PM.

[Laurie.Booth]

Hi Laurie...etc...
Not all adjusters look like that..mine doesn't..
My prop shaft passes trough a large ring shaped nut...which then passes through another ring shaped nut..both of whcih have 'spigot' holes in them..
The second 'nut' is a cone nut that forces the seal down against the prop shaft. To adjust...you have to loosen the front...engine 'end' lock nut...then turn the second nut with the special spanner...so that it compresses the sealing string against the prop shaft..

I rotate the prop by hand until I feel it start to grip..and then turn back slightly...about quarter turn I was told... but everyone has their own opinion. You then tighten the lock ring down onto the adjusting ring..

Make sense..?

Have you got a diagram?
My picture is the same as the one on my boat.
Perhaps we should ask the OP?

[Bobbybass]

Have you got a diagram?
My picture is the same as the one on my boat.
Perhaps we should ask the OP?

Hmmm....I could draw one...?..
But what then..??

Ok...trying to draw...now..

Bob

[Albion]

Have you got a diagram?
My picture is the same as the one on my boat.
Perhaps we should ask the OP?

I know exactly what Bobbybass is talking about as I had that type on my first boat. You need what is known as a C spanner (It's like a letter C with a handle attached at one end) to unlock the two rings and then to adjust and lock them up again. The small nib at the end of the tip of the C goes into small holes drilled at intervals around the circumference of the rings and the concave hollow of the C fits the shape of the periphery of the rings quite well. Edited to add; here are pictures of what I'm describing for a C spanner Ebay C spanners
Roger

Edited by Albion, 12 April 2012 - 03:09 PM.

[Bobbybass]

Well...I just drew it...from memory...as I'm in Spain..
Saved it in windows paint as a JPG..

Now..what ??!!

How do I put it here...?

[bizzard]

If like some of old Stewart turner and others stern-tube designs,it could have a large screwed hexagon pusher adjuster with hex backing lock nut,similar to the ring and C spanner job of Albions description but adjusted with large open ended spanners or Stilsons instead of the C spanners.

[Tony Brooks]

Hmmm....I could draw one...?..
But what then..??

Ok...trying to draw...now..

Bob

Better still have a look at where I think that diagram may have been lifted from and see if any of the others make sense to you. My pages

[Stormbringer]

If like some of old Stewart turner and others stern-tube designs,it could have a large screwed hexagon pusher adjuster with hex backing lock nut,similar to the ring and C spanner job of Albions description but adjusted with large open ended spanners or Stilsons instead of the C spanners.

My pal's little Springer has that arrangement - a single big nut.
Didn't see a locknut though - but it was dark at the time lol .....

Andy

[ditchcrawler]

Better still have a look at where I think that diagram may have been lifted from and see if any of the others make sense to you. My pages

I thought is was a good drawing