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water lubricated stern gland


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#41 Evo

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 12:24 PM

The coupling on Wot Ever looks like this - anyone know what it is?


I know what it is...its a Centaflex. On it somewhere you will see a small 'VETUS' stamp. Centaflex Have now upped the spec and included a failsafe if the rubber shears. Vetus still sell centa couplings as uniflex.

Vetus uniflex couplings

http://www.frenchmar...uplings-771-136

and Centaflex

http://www.centa.inf...ucts&c=uk&nr=40
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#42 WotEver

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 12:27 PM

Neither of those links look the same though. Is that just because they've updated the design?

Cheers,
Tony
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#43 Evo

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 12:33 PM

Yes , as I said they have added the failsafe stuff. extra lugs on the alum casting to take a big steel ring that bothe provides emergency drive and stops it all flying apart.

Ours was the same as yours until it sheared and came apart this year on the Paddington arm. I have since bought a new centaflex and was gobsmacked to find that its exactly the same coupling as my old one but with these additional bits.
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#44 WotEver

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 12:42 PM

Gotcha! Thanks :)
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#45 Evo

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 12:52 PM

Maybe this view will be more convincing.

Posted Image
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#46 WotEver

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 12:54 PM

I was already convinced. I'm just puzzled as to where all the rubber has gone.

Tony
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#47 Evo

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 01:06 PM

Its still there exactly the same - its just that its now shrouded by all that extra gubbins. There are four steel cubes allen screwed to the old centre hub for emergency drive using the cut outs in the new steel plate. The casting lug that the plate is bolted to and the 1" wide ring of casting its sitting on are additional.

Vetus add a couple of hundred quid in the process of getting it in their catalogue by the way.

Edited by Evo, 01 August 2011 - 01:07 PM.

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#48 WotEver

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 02:04 PM

Vetus add a couple of hundred quid in the process of getting it in their catalogue by the way.

Yes, I spotted that. It's gratifying to see that they're consistent.

Tony
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#49 catweasel

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 03:15 PM

Does the prop shaft go through the centre of the R&D coupling, or does it stop at the face of it?

We have a vetus shaft and PRM gearbox, The prop shaft goes through the existing coupling up to the face of the gearbox plate - thus if the propshaft can not go through the R&D coupling it would in effect extend our prop shaft by its (R&D coupling) thickness, though I do not know if this would be an issue (any comments anyone?).

Martin

My prop shaft does not pass through the coupling, but am unsure if it could owing to the failsafe strap. I think the shaft might be able to pass into the coupling a little, but wouldn't like to guess how much. If notI suppose the alternatives are to either push the shaft back a little, or cut a bit off the shaft with a large angle grinder. IIRC the shaft shouldn't protrude out of the tube (prop side) by more than 1.5 times the dia of the shaft. No doubt somebody will be along to correct me ;)
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#50 blackrose

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Posted 01 August 2011 - 08:39 PM

We have a vetus shaft and PRM gearbox, The prop shaft goes through the existing coupling up to the face of the gearbox plate - thus if the propshaft can not go through the R&D coupling it would in effect extend our prop shaft by its (R&D coupling) thickness, though I do not know if this would be an issue (any comments anyone?).

Martin


Like Martin I would like to know how (assuming the shaft was extended by about an inch - the thickness of the R&D coupling), what effect pushing the prop back by an inch would have? I can't see myself chopping an inch off the prop shaft with an angle grinder in the engine hole. Can you imagine the mess?

For those who've fitted an R&D coupling on their boats, how did pushing back the prop affect the performance?

I'll have to look at my existing (non-flexible) prop shaft coupling. Perhaps the prop shaft can go further into it?

Edited by blackrose, 01 August 2011 - 09:04 PM.

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#51 catweasel

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 09:38 AM

Like Martin I would like to know how (assuming the shaft was extended by about an inch - the thickness of the R&D coupling), what effect pushing the prop back by an inch would have? I can't see myself chopping an inch off the prop shaft with an angle grinder in the engine hole. Can you imagine the mess?

For those who've fitted an R&D coupling on their boats, how did pushing back the prop affect the performance?

I'll have to look at my existing (non-flexible) prop shaft coupling. Perhaps the prop shaft can go further into it?

It's a while since I dismantled the R&D, but on ours I am 99% certain that the shaft was level with the face of the shaft coupling. Yours of course may be different.
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#52 RonF

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 11:58 AM

hope in got this right as its my first time. I have change the seals on my propshaft which seemed easy. slacked the 4 clamp bolts on the coupling and slid the shaft back and removed the 3 screws holding the oil seal housing, removed housing from shaft removed both oil seal,replaced both seal in housing and relaced. the oil seals I purchased from local bearing specialist for 2 pound each. silicone grease from plumbers merchant and the paper gasket was replaced with gasket compound, all done with the boat in the water.
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#53 blackrose

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 12:22 PM

hope in got this right as its my first time. I have change the seals on my propshaft which seemed easy. slacked the 4 clamp bolts on the coupling and slid the shaft back and removed the 3 screws holding the oil seal housing, removed housing from shaft removed both oil seal,replaced both seal in housing and relaced. the oil seals I purchased from local bearing specialist for 2 pound each. silicone grease from plumbers merchant and the paper gasket was replaced with gasket compound, all done with the boat in the water.


What make of water-lubricated gland was that? At 2 a seal it can't have been Vetus unless there are cheaper seals available?
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#54 catweasel

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 04:30 PM

What make of water-lubricated gland was that? At 2 a seal it can't have been Vetus unless there are cheaper seals available?

Would be interesting to know. I have pondered as to whether Vetus just use a standard oil seal, and stick it in an orange coloured package, along with a "profit margin."
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#55 RonF

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 07:14 PM

it is a Vetus but I took the seals to a local bearing supplier who said they were a standard oil seal
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#56 blackrose

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 07:28 PM

it is a Vetus but I took the seals to a local bearing supplier who said they were a standard oil seal


Thanks, that's worth knowing.
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#57 catweasel

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 07:30 PM

it is a Vetus but I took the seals to a local bearing supplier who said they were a standard oil seal

Brilliant :) Don't suppose you know the seal number?
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#58 bizzard

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 07:51 PM

My prop shaft does not pass through the coupling, but am unsure if it could owing to the failsafe strap. I think the shaft might be able to pass into the coupling a little, but wouldn't like to guess how much. If notI suppose the alternatives are to either push the shaft back a little, or cut a bit off the shaft with a large angle grinder. IIRC the shaft shouldn't protrude out of the tube (prop side) by more than 1.5 times the dia of the shaft. No doubt somebody will be along to correct me ;)

Thats correct.And no less than an inch either, or in fore gear the prop boss is liable to rub on the outboard bearing,due to the flexibility of the engine mounts and coupling.Also would make it difficult to remove string,fishing line ect from it.bizzard
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#59 RonF

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 08:20 PM

I am going to the boat tomorrow and will get the numbrs, bought two spares just in case, these have done 120 hours up to now and no leaks
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#60 catweasel

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Posted 02 August 2011 - 09:11 PM

I am going to the boat tomorrow and will get the numbrs, bought two spares just in case, these have done 120 hours up to now and no leaks

Superb :)
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