Jump to content


Photo

Painting the Bilge and rust


  • Please log in to reply
29 replies to this topic

#1 emkay

emkay

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 59 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:09 PM

Painting the bilge is depressingly rising to the surface of "jobs to be done" just a little surface rust as only 6 months old but a few patches under the engine that are almost impossible to get to, can I get away with leaving these or am I storing up problems? Planning on using yacht primer and paint.
  • 0

#2 Grace & Favour

Grace & Favour

    Long Standing Member

  • Site Crew
  • 7,701 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:13 PM

Painting the bilge is depressingly rising to the surface of "jobs to be done" just a little surface rust as only 6 months old but a few patches under the engine that are almost impossible to get to, can I get away with leaving these or am I storing up problems? Planning on using yacht primer and paint.

Can't you just tape a paintbrush / mini roller to the end of a stick/pole just to paint those difficult to reach places - - always better painted than not!

I like collecting recipes

I now have a greater number of recipes than the likely number of days remaining to me!


#3 J R

J R

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 430 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Kennet & Avon
  • Boat Name:Salix Alba

Posted 21 June 2010 - 06:57 PM

Painting the bilge is depressingly rising to the surface of "jobs to be done" just a little surface rust as only 6 months old but a few patches under the engine that are almost impossible to get to, can I get away with leaving these or am I storing up problems? Planning on using yacht primer and paint.


Suggest that you flat off the rust with some sandpaper and repaint with International Damboline, colour to suit, as the paint is designed to withatand the ravages of an engine hole. Painted ours four years ago and apart from the usual dirt etc one gets in the engine bay it has stood up well. Stick on a couple of coats and it should do the job. Make sure that the surface/s are prepared well. Swine to get under the engine but worth it imo in the long run.
  • 0
Boating is the alternative reality

#4 David Mack

David Mack

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,375 posts

Posted 21 June 2010 - 10:03 PM

Can't you just tape a paintbrush / mini roller to the end of a stick/pole just to paint those difficult to reach places - - always better painted than not!

Or use one of these.

David
  • 0

#5 PhilR

PhilR

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,648 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Cheshire East

Posted 21 June 2010 - 10:40 PM

Painting the bilge is depressingly rising to the surface of "jobs to be done" just a little surface rust as only 6 months old but a few patches under the engine that are almost impossible to get to, can I get away with leaving these or am I storing up problems? Planning on using yacht primer and paint.


If you can't get at the base plate under the engine to apply paint, the chances are you won't be able to clean and prepare it adequately enough to accept a good protective paint layer. A better option might be to pour or spray some Owatrol oil onto the base plate. This will prevent any further rusting for a few years and it will dry and form a good watertight seal which can be painted at a later date if your engine doesn't drip oil and diesel. ........ But, the chances are, in a few years time the engine will have leaked enough oil and diesel to prevent further rusting. I'm not keen on any of the *yacht primers* ..........
  • 0

#6 Derek R.

Derek R.

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 2,469 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Shropshire

Posted 22 June 2010 - 06:33 AM

Go with Owatrol. It takes ages to dry, but that's due in part to its linseed oil content. The 'oil' penetrates well, and once dry you can overpaint. David shows a radiator brush - they and the comparative small roller are good at reaching awkward places. Clean off what you can, but the Owatrol will penetrate the surface rust no problem (though the cleaner the better). I wouldn't bother with expensive rust converters and after primers, used them in the past after thorough hammering and descaling only to find them lift off along with the overpaint after a good hammering from outside. Something soft and creepy is what a bilge will like - with engine room and visible areas the Owatrol overpainted with International Floor Paint has done me proud so far. Mind you - Owatrol Oil is not cheap, but goes a long way with many uses.

Owatrol also do a red oxide coloured rust prevention treatment, it's called CIP - catalogue page 15 HERE. Now that IS expensive!

Derek
  • 0

#7 blackrose

blackrose

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 14,771 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 22 June 2010 - 10:27 AM

If you can't get at the base plate under the engine to apply paint, the chances are you won't be able to clean and prepare it adequately enough to accept a good protective paint layer. A better option might be to pour or spray some Owatrol oil onto the base plate. This will prevent any further rusting for a few years and it will dry and form a good watertight seal which can be painted at a later date if your engine doesn't drip oil and diesel. ........ But, the chances are, in a few years time the engine will have leaked enough oil and diesel to prevent further rusting. I'm not keen on any of the *yacht primers* ..........


I would agree about using a thin layer of oil for the hard to reach 'contained' area directly below the engine & gearbox. However, I wouldn't put oil anywhere else, especially if you're going to stand on the baseplate in the area. You'll just trapse oil onto your decks and into your boat. Not very nice.

If your bilges stay dry I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of surface rust - mine have been like that for years. It's a job I need to do at some point but it isn't getting any worse.
  • 0

#8 capnthommo

capnthommo

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 232 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Boat Name:Josephine

Posted 22 June 2010 - 10:28 AM

Go with Owatrol. It takes ages to dry, but that's due in part to its linseed oil content. The 'oil' penetrates well, and once dry you can overpaint. David shows a radiator brush - they and the comparative small roller are good at reaching awkward places. Clean off what you can, but the Owatrol will penetrate the surface rust no problem (though the cleaner the better). I wouldn't bother with expensive rust converters and after primers, used them in the past after thorough hammering and descaling only to find them lift off along with the overpaint after a good hammering from outside. Something soft and creepy is what a bilge will like - with engine room and visible areas the Owatrol overpainted with International Floor Paint has done me proud so far. Mind you - Owatrol Oil is not cheap, but goes a long way with many uses.

Owatrol also do a red oxide coloured rust prevention treatment, it's called CIP - catalogue page 15 HERE. Now that IS expensive!

Derek


and here's a third for owatrol.
cheers
nigel
  • 0

I think you'll find it's a little more complicated than that.


#9 WotEver

WotEver

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,907 posts
  • Location:Springwood Haven, Nuneaton
  • Boat Name:Wot Ever

Posted 22 June 2010 - 11:16 AM

and here's a third for owatrol.

and a fourth.
  • 0

#10 PhilR

PhilR

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,648 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Cheshire East

Posted 22 June 2010 - 11:19 AM

I would agree about using a thin layer of oil for the hard to reach 'contained' area directly below the engine & gearbox. However, I wouldn't put oil anywhere else, especially if you're going to stand on the baseplate in the area. You'll just trapse oil onto your decks and into your boat. Not very nice.

If your bilges stay dry I wouldn't worry too much about a bit of surface rust - mine have been like that for years. It's a job I need to do at some point but it isn't getting any worse.


Owatrol oil soaks into rusty steel and after a few days it dries and forms a protective layer, so no worries about treading on it. :lol:
  • 0

#11 FORTUNATA

FORTUNATA

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 1,558 posts
  • Boat Name:VENTURE

Posted 22 June 2010 - 11:21 AM

My bilge is pretty bad because it's an old cruiser. I find the original steel is really rusted so will allow water to get at the new steel below where the boat was overplated. That is, between the skins, so to speak. My plan is to seal it and then paint as much bilge as I can.
I never understood why boatbuilders have eternally left boat owners with these problems of ingress of water into unprotected bilges. Cruisers seldom have deck drainage so we have to rely on covers which always seem problematic.


Painting the bilge is depressingly rising to the surface of "jobs to be done" just a little surface rust as only 6 months old but a few patches under the engine that are almost impossible to get to, can I get away with leaving these or am I storing up problems? Planning on using yacht primer and paint.


  • 0
Sensors detect imminent danger. Danger, Will Robinson! Danger!

#12 BlueStringPudding

BlueStringPudding

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,649 posts
  • Gender:Female
  • Location:Hertfordshire
  • Boat Name:Mabel Stark

Posted 22 June 2010 - 12:48 PM

Painting the bilge is depressingly rising to the surface of "jobs to be done" just a little surface rust as only 6 months old but a few patches under the engine that are almost impossible to get to, can I get away with leaving these or am I storing up problems? Planning on using yacht primer and paint.


Pour in the Vactan, rock the boat a bit, wait two days. Pour in the primer, rock the boat a bit, wait two days. Pour in the topcoat, rocks the boat a bit...

Okay, I'm talking twoddle. My engine bilge is suitably coated in gearbox oil, so I'm not one to talk.
  • 0
"Just seen a BW working boat come to a standstill with a fouled prop - The crew claimed it may take 2-3 hrs to clear !!!! so bowhauled the boat on the old blue string pudding." - benfordboy


"Am I in the distance yet?" - Bod

#13 AlanH

AlanH

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 974 posts
  • Location:Macc
  • Boat Name:Altonian

Posted 22 June 2010 - 12:53 PM

and a fourth.

I'm impressed and so have just ordered some.
  • 0

#14 emkay

emkay

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 59 posts
  • Gender:Male

Posted 22 June 2010 - 03:06 PM

Owatrol it is then...thanks all very helpful inputs
  • 0

#15 luctor et emergo

luctor et emergo

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,039 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Location:they seek him here....
  • Boat Name:Shanty Sails

Posted 28 June 2010 - 10:10 PM

Where can I buy this Owatrol? That website is really awful too navigate...


Cheers
  • 0

Junior for President

 

 

 

Proud wearer of two warnings


#16 soldthehouse

soldthehouse

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 3,689 posts
  • Location:Durham

Posted 28 June 2010 - 10:17 PM

Where can I buy this Owatrol? That website is really awful too navigate...


Cheers

http://www.deksolje.com/
  • 0
If I offend you its out of carelessness and not malice aforethought

LIFE IS A JOURNEY A SHORT JOURNEY ONE LIFE LOVE IT AND LIVE IT

Despite my best efforts I remain a mere mortal.

#17 WotEver

WotEver

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,907 posts
  • Location:Springwood Haven, Nuneaton
  • Boat Name:Wot Ever

Posted 29 June 2010 - 09:12 AM

Where can I buy this Owatrol?

Let's Google it.

Surprisingly, a chandlery is one of the cheapest suppliers.

Tony :lol:
  • 0

#18 luctor et emergo

luctor et emergo

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 5,039 posts
  • Gender:Not Telling
  • Location:they seek him here....
  • Boat Name:Shanty Sails

Posted 29 June 2010 - 12:28 PM

http://www.deksolje.com/



That is a varnish for teak decks? I'm not rich enough to finish the bilge in teak... :lol:



Let's Google it.

Surprisingly, a chandlery is one of the cheapest suppliers.

Tony :lol:



I know, I know.. :lol: I was more looking to the experiences of the forum members who have used it as wel as where they bought it. Simply looking at websites tells you little (if anything) about the level of service, and rarely the cost.

Thanks :lol:
  • 0

Junior for President

 

 

 

Proud wearer of two warnings


#19 WotEver

WotEver

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 6,907 posts
  • Location:Springwood Haven, Nuneaton
  • Boat Name:Wot Ever

Posted 29 June 2010 - 12:54 PM

... I was more looking to the experiences of the forum members who have used it as wel as where they bought it.

I've used it - it does exactly what has been said in the thread. I think I bought it from here: http://www.boatpaint...onditioner.html At least, I have that site bookmarked, so I guess I did. :lol:

Tony
  • 0

#20 ChrisPy

ChrisPy

    Long Standing Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPipPipPip
  • 4,560 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:bristle
  • Boat Name:River Star

Posted 29 June 2010 - 12:57 PM

That is a varnish for teak decks? I'm not rich enough to finish the bilge in teak... :lol:

try these decks for luxury finish:

http://narrowboats.a...phtml?id=143224
  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users