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Posted

Not wanting to get into a fight but as others have said in other threads on this topic, you need a better power arrangement, a more sensible bank size and a better charging regime. Have a few bells and whistles helps ie advance alternator control of some sort, a bit of solar, etc etc Of course live aboard use and casual use does influence your needs as does your location. If you live aboard and moor near shops not having a fridge is possible but if you live out in the sticks its not practical and a fridge then becomes a necessity.

 

It's a personal choice. I have 250W of solar and a 10kva inboard genset so power generation isn't a problem. From late February onwards I don't have to use the engine or genny for charging at all. I could add a couple of batteries and wouldn't have a problem charging them, just choose not to do so as I prefer the simplicity of low leccy use and not actually having to maintain a charging regime at all for most of the year. I like simplicity, and for me that means no fridge and no bells and whistles. For the first four years I had the boat I survived quite happily with a single leisure battery. To each their own.

Posted

It's a personal choice. I have 250W of solar and a 10kva inboard genset so power generation isn't a problem. From late February onwards I don't have to use the engine or genny for charging at all. I could add a couple of batteries and wouldn't have a problem charging them, just choose not to do so as I prefer the simplicity of low leccy use and not actually having to maintain a charging regime at all for most of the year. I like simplicity, and for me that means no fridge and no bells and whistles. For the first four years I had the boat I survived quite happily with a single leisure battery. To each their own.

Well said, that is sort of what I was trying to say, go for the simple life if it suits you but when someone who clearly wants the added extras ie fridge etc and has trouble coping then simply they need to look at how they are doing things and tackle the problem by whatever means achieves their goal. If that means going solar, a bigger bank or whatever then so beit. As you said "it's a personal Choice"

 

Phil

Posted (edited)

it's good all autum / winter, but not in the summer , the milk still goes off in there

Last couple of winters I've been meaning to make a small cupboard in the engine room to act as a fridge. Only problem is heat when you move. But I agree in late autumn/winter this is what I should do.

 

To be honest, I started on a bit of a wind up over the shoreline thing. I know the numbers inside out because I bothered to look when I fitted my boat out. It just annoyed me that whilst this thread started as a topic on what people do, I stuck my bit up and the response I got was 'well, what you should've done was this...' I don't think if you look at my post that I'm telling anyone else to do anything. Just saying what works my end. My 240v fridge/freezer cost me £150. It runs twice a day for a grand total of 0.085kwh per day. No that's not a typo.

 

Smelly I agree that invertors are no real issue, especially if you need them for other stuff anyway. Besides, ours is turned off when we don't need it. If the fridge breaks, I can replace it with a freezer only unit for about a hundred quid.

 

I'm not saying do it, since a lot of people have 12v systems. But just putting a post up saying that I'm wrong and 12v fridge is the only way to go is not really helpful to anyone reading this thread thinking of options for fit out.

Edited by Captain Zim
Posted

We're ccers and turn our fridge off round about October and have just switched it on again. Stuff stays nice and cool in the cupboard.

 

We do need to update our aged Shoreline 12v fridge though - it sucks the batteries dry unless we've got the solar input.

 

We're still deliberating between getting a 240v fridge or a new 12v fridge. I'm still hoping after 4 years to one day have a small freezer on the boat.

 

Our learning curve is still ongoing :)

Posted

Last couple of winters I've been meaning to make a small cupboard in the engine room to act as a fridge. Only problem is heat when you move. But I agree in late autumn/winter this is what I should do.

 

To be honest, I started on a bit of a wind up over the shoreline thing. I know the numbers inside out because I bothered to look when I fitted my boat out. It just annoyed me that whilst this thread started as a topic on what people do, I stuck my bit up and the response I got was 'well, what you should've done was this...' I don't think if you look at my post that I'm telling anyone else to do anything. Just saying what works my end. My 240v fridge/freezer cost me £150. It runs twice a day for a grand total of 0.085kwh per day. No that's not a typo.

 

Smelly I agree that invertors are no real issue, especially if you need them for other stuff anyway. Besides, ours is turned off when we don't need it. If the fridge breaks, I can replace it with a freezer only unit for about a hundred quid.

 

I'm not saying do it, since a lot of people have 12v systems. But just putting a post up saying that I'm wrong and 12v fridge is the only way to go is not really helpful to anyone reading this thread thinking of options for fit out.

 

I do'nt remember anyone saying you were wrong nor that a 12v fridge is the only way to go. By your own admission you did not quite get it right because you have to prop open the door f your fridge and use it like a cupboard while turning the stat down on your freezer and faffing about with a timer. But there you go it's The Personal Choice thing again so do'nt get wound up when posters relate ways that work for them, maybe just maybe they might have a point.

I have often found on this forum that I have been able to learn something and have in the past cherry picked the best bits to my advantage

 

Phil

Posted

We're ccers and turn our fridge off round about October and have just switched it on again. Stuff stays nice and cool in the cupboard.

 

We do need to update our aged Shoreline 12v fridge though - it sucks the batteries dry unless we've got the solar input.

 

We're still deliberating between getting a 240v fridge or a new 12v fridge. I'm still hoping after 4 years to one day have a small freezer on the boat.

 

Our learning curve is still ongoing smile.png

If the black grid at the back gets hot in use, a 12V fan cooling it down will make the fridge more efficient, the Danfoss based Shorelines have a dedicated output for just this purpose. Also good ventilation around the cabinet to get rid of the warm air helps too.

 

If the fridge just runs and runs even in winter, without the grid thing getting barely warm, its possible the refrigeration circuit has a partial blockage, a fridge man should be able to sort it though it's not the cheapest repair to do.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Posted

 

...while turning the stat down on your freezer and faffing about with a timer.

 

Phil

Just to be clear, I've made no changes to the operation of the freezer at all. I just turn it on less. Because most freezers are better insulated than fridges it stays cold for longer. All advice is always welcome. Its the way it's sometimes given, is all.

 

Now, on a related topic, anyone reckon you could run a gas fridge by replacing the burner flame with a tea light candle?

Posted

If the black grid at the back gets hot in use, a 12V fan cooling it down will make the fridge more efficient, the Danfoss based Shorelines have a dedicated output for just this purpose. Also good ventilation around the cabinet to get rid of the warm air helps too.

 

If the fridge just runs and runs even in winter, without the grid thing getting barely warm, its possible the refrigeration circuit has a partial blockage, a fridge man should be able to sort it though it's not the cheapest repair to do.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

The latter. We're thinking it's probably not worth getting a fridge man out to repair a 20 year old fridge - time for a new one :)

Posted

I've just moved aboard and not turned fridge on, used it for storing but it smells awful. Aren't you supposed to leave the door open to stop smells?

 

Basically YES

 

They can get really bad if left closed for long periods and switched off. Sometimes a Black mould forms and stains the door rubber, you'll not remove it once it gets hold.

 

We have to be extra careful when storing fridges & freezers to make sure they are not left open.

Posted

I never had a fridge,I do have to ditch the odd bit of milk but I use longlife and it seems to do quite well. I can't say i miss it , I wouldn't want the bother of having to power a fridge and couldn't be bothered with a freezer.

Posted

Power consumption of course varies from model to model, ours is a regular sized undercounter model, 100ltr capacity and if i recall correctly it averages out at about 1.4amps an hour. Shoreline have a website which gives power consumption figures along with dimensions etc etc of their range.

The reason why they are more expensive is because they buy in 240v fridges and rework them ie rip out all the 240v stuff and replace with 12v, they use Danfos compressors which are the bench mark ones to have. The obvious second reason for the higher cost is volume of sales, there is nothing like the demand for 12v fridges as opposed to 240v fridges.

 

Phil

LEC use to make and sell a 12/24 volt DC fridge direct to the public, just before I ordered one they signed a deal to just supply one company and that wasn't Comet. I don't know if they still do, but if so there is a good profit in changing a name badge.

 

Just to be clear, I've made no changes to the operation of the freezer at all. I just turn it on less. Because most freezers are better insulated than fridges it stays cold for longer. All advice is always welcome. Its the way it's sometimes given, is all.

 

There is loads of info on doing this on the web

Posted

Being a nerdy scientific type, I have come to the conclusion that there is a direct correlation between the need for thermal long johns and the need to turn the fridge back on ..... call me a daredevil, but I am now on DAY 2 of NO LONG JOHNS and I felt my milk was not as fresh as it might have been this morning .......

 

cheers.gif

  • Greenie 1
Posted

Being a nerdy scientific type, I have come to the conclusion that there is a direct correlation between the need for thermal long johns and the need to turn the fridge back on ..... call me a daredevil, but I am now on DAY 2 of NO LONG JOHNS and I felt my milk was not as fresh as it might have been this morning .......

 

cheers.gif

Long Johns? In April? ohmy.png

Posted (edited)

The latter. We're thinking it's probably not worth getting a fridge man out to repair a 20 year old fridge - time for a new one smile.png

 

If it's one with a Danfoss compressor and the cabinet is in good nick it might be a shame to throw it away.

 

If you can take it to a fridge man instead when they're not busy they might be able to repair it for reasonable £££ - around £100ish? If it's a blockage it often involves replacing one or two small parts called a drier and capilliary tube.

 

If you ask on the 'refrigeration engineer' forum they're quite friendly and helpful, and should be able to say if it's worth trying to repair, maybe a ballpark cost, might even find someone local on there. Also just try ringing a couple of small outfits close to you and have a quick chat.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited by smileypete

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