cabin leaks

[Alvin]

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways.

Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

[RobinJ]

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways.

Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

If the wood is under compression (ie gaps between planks etc) you may be better with some sort of caulking!

Where there is likely to be more movement, silicone is usually a waste of time because it sets. In this case you may be better with an acrylic sealant that remains flexible?

[David Mack]

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways.

Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

 

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure has been recommended elsewhere. Never used it myself though.

 

David

[cereal tiller]

Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure has been recommended elsewhere. Never used it myself though.

 

David

 

Captain tolleys creeping crack cure,i thought it had been rebranded as IMMODIUM?

 

Seriously,a polyurethane moisture cured sealant is more effective than silicone.

 

and dont forget good old BITUMASTIC COMPOUNDS, a modest amount could be painted onto the suspect cracks before timber mouldings are affixed.

[smileypete]

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways.

Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

If the cracks are quite fine, you could try PVA wood glue as mentioned in this post (and this post ).

 

cheers.

Pete.

Edited December 15, 2011 by smileypete

[koukouvagia]

I have on going leaks no matter what I have done to resolve with silicone sealer under trim, capillary leak sealer treatment.The problem area is the the join between cabin and companion ways.

Has anyone used this type of rubber paint to seal leaks succesfully on a wooden boat.

 

When you talk about "companion ways" do you mean gunwales? Is the join that's causing the problem where wood meets metal?

 

I've wrestled with a similar problem over the years and come to the following conclusions:

 

Forget about Captain Tolley's crack cure. It may be OK for hairline cracks on plastic boats but it's useless if the gap is any wider – it's just like pouring water down the crack – it just runs away and never solidifies.

 

As has already been pointed out silicon stuff is equally useless. It'll just peel away.

 

Slightly better are the wood frame sealants.

 

You might have more success with Sikaflex and its cheaper variant Marinflex. However, problem will recur because the wood has probably become saturated. All these sealants will do is trap the moisture in and eventally it will find a way out, usually bringing the sealant with it.

 

If you just want to stop the leak until you have time to fix the underlying problem you could try roofing mastic. This is a sticky, bitumen based goo which will keep out any leaks and won't lift off if there's any damp in the wood. However, you won't be able to paint over it.

 

I've used Protectakote which is a rubberised paint with good adhesion and waterproofing properties. However, this will also also peel away in time.

 

The only way I've found of making a 100 percent waterproof join is to use fibreglass tape and epoxy resin (the West system). But you can only do this in the summer when the wood has dried out thoroughly.

Edited December 15, 2011 by koukouvagia

[blackrose]

 

You might have more success with Sikaflex and its cheaper variant Marinflex. However, problem will recur because the wood has probably become saturated. All these sealants will do is trap the moisture in and eventally it will find a way out, usually bringing the sealant with it.

 

The only way I've found of making a 100 percent waterproof join is to use fibreglass tape and epoxy resin (the West system). But you can only do this in the summer when the wood has dried out thoroughly.

 

Similarly, if the wood is dried out thoroughly then Sikaflex or Marineflex would cure the problem.

[Badger]

Similarly, if the wood is dried out thoroughly then Sikaflex or Marineflex would cure the problem.

 

Hi all...and Seasons Greetings. I too have a leak problem. Both my portholes are leaking. The boat is now 12 years old, so I expect the sealant has broken down My plan is to remove them completely, dry,and reseal them. Could anybody advise what type of Sikafex to use for this application (there seem to be many).Also the portholes have a flange to the exterior side with a fixing of self tapping screws into the steel cabin sides. They also have an interior trim, with a flange to cover the hole in the lining. There are no screws on the inner side. Unless the self tappers go right through to the inner trim (which I do not think they do), I cannot see how to remove the portholes...any ideas ?. I believe they were made by channelglaze.

 

Badger

[Old Son]

You could always contact Channel Glaze. I found them very helpful.

[onionbargee]

Clorinated rubber paint is very expensive and very good stuff, it's used for swimming pools, and is totally waterproof, and some chemicals too. I've used it and it lasts for years, and years, and years.