sealing windows

[Alastair]

our narrowboat has some of those 'bus' style windows, held in by a rubber seal.

 

The edge of the steel around the window opening wasn't painted by the previous owner, so rust has developed on it. This has pushed out the rubber seal, causing leaks in the current crap weather.

 

My instinct is that in the short term I need to scrape out the rust, using a blunt butter knife, then place a thin bead of paintable sealant (something like this http://tinyurl.com/2najh3 ) under the rubber.

 

At some point, I need to cut out the rubber seal, paint the steel properly and reinstall with new seals.

 

Anyone have any good sources for the seals?

 

Anyone done repairs like this?

[bottle]

Seals Direct not used them usual get out clause

[Alastair]

Brill, thanks Keith

[Gary Peacock]

On a new build you use Arboseal GZ Sealing Tape this is a sticky flexible sealant that comes on a roll a bit like double sided tape you apply this to the frame and then when you fit the frame it forms a flexible gasket and you simple trim away the excess.

 

If you can't find any give me a bell and I can get you some.

[Alastair]

How does that work with the rubber gaskets?

[Gary Peacock]

How does that work with the rubber gaskets?

 

It wont!

 

I think I'm with you now your windows don't have any frame at all they're just glass held in the aperture by a rubber seal around edge?

 

If that's the case Seals Direct is a good bet, we use them for door seals and they provide a good service.

[Alastair]

Yup, that's right.

 

A very small amount of rust has pushed the rubber seal out. Nothing wrong with the condition of the seal.

 

A capillary-sized gap is enough to let in a constant drip of water with the current weather.

[smileypete]

Yup, that's right.

 

A very small amount of rust has pushed the rubber seal out. Nothing wrong with the condition of the seal.

 

A capillary-sized gap is enough to let in a constant drip of water with the current weather.

 

If you need a short term bodge/fix try getting some PVA glue in there, it's thin enough to soak in and is reasonably waterproof once dry.

 

cheers,

Pete.

 

Edit:

 

If re-sealing the windows from scratch I'd grind back to bare steel and paint it with zinc rich primer. No matter how good the sealant if rust starts it will travel under the paint if it can.

 

Some topcoats react with zinc primer so an undercoat is needed, and some zinc primers are 'self finishing' and don't need paint on top, well worth following the directions to the letter.

 

cheers,

Pete.

Edited July 2, 2007 by smileypete

[Alastair]

I take it that you've tried the PVA fix yourself? It sounds like it could work.

 

Seals direct seem to sell every profile going, so I'm not worried about having to cut the rubber out when the time comes.

 

+1 on the grinding back. I've tried 'patching' paint, and the 'rust killers'. Not much success . . .

[stuart]

You may not need to cut the rubber out, can you use the "string" method like they used to use when fitting car windscreens to prise the rubber away?

[Alastair]

Dunno - what is the 'string' method?

 

The rubber is old, I doubt it would come out intact and go back in intact.

[DHutch]

I would gaff tape it for now, then when theres a decent change of a few dry days, pop the windows our, get the angle grinder on it back to bright steel, blashprimer, zinc epoxy primer, undercoat, x2 topcoat, windows back in with new seals.

 

 

Daniel

[Alastair]

Gaffer tap isn't a bad idea. Erm, Dhutch, you got a crystal ball for predicting the weather or something? I ain't heard any rumours about dry days.

[David Schweizer]

If it is only a fairly small leak, as a short term measure try using (say this carefully!) "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure". Some chandlerys sell it but I got mine from a Camping & Caravanning shop. It works by capilliary action, and it does not matter if there is water already in the gap. It really does work and will probably last for a year or two, which will give you plenty of time to wait for better weather before removing the window to do the job properly.

Edited July 2, 2007 by David Schweizer

[Radiomariner]

Have you ever been out in the rain with that roll of gaffe tape? It dont stick when it is wet. Surface has to be dry first.

Having an old grp/fibreglass top (Lots of screws) I swear by Captain Tolleys. That will work in the rain. When the water leaking into the boat starts to turn white you know you've applied your 'Tolleys' to the correct spot

[Alastair]

I just looked up "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure". Info sheets say it must be applied to dry surfaces.

 

I'm guessing from david and Alan's comments that you have tried it on wet surfaces and it worked ok. Is this so?

[David Schweizer]

I just looked up "Captain Tolley's Creeping Crack Cure". Info sheets say it must be applied to dry surfaces.

 

I'm guessing from david and Alan's comments that you have tried it on wet surfaces and it worked ok. Is this so?

Yes, In fact I am sure it says you can use it on wet joints on the bottle (which is on the boat so I can't confirm that)

[DHutch]

Yeah, it does have to be dry surfaces for gaffa, but there are short breaks even in this, get a blood towel and get out there!

- As for creeping crack cure, it does have its uses, and ive used in in the odd place on emilyanne, some pertiualar weld around the funnel bracket, and some screws that go into the cabin side, but where its large area/lenghts of non-sealing rubber joint im not sure how much sucess you would get?

 

Also, have you got a motorway bridge near you...? Nice and dry under there for a for few days. Just a thought.

 

 

 

Daniel

[Alastair]

Also, have you got a motorway bridge near you...? Nice and dry under there for a for few days. Just a thought.

Daniel

 

Daniel, if I had that much time free . . . .

 

I could cut out all the windows, grind out the rust, and refit them in a a few days.

 

Creepy crack cure ordered. Will report back as to success.